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SATURDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2017

VINTAGES

29

UNCORK SOMETHING GREAT • SATURDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2017

THE ARRAN MALT AMARONE CASK FINISH

ISLE OF ARRAN SINGLE MALT

(Isle of Arran Distillers)

TASTING NOTE: The buzzing black peppers leave

you in no doubt what is to follow. As does the

stunning clarity of the grape and crisp, business-like

manner of the barley: stirring! and so it is played out

on the palate: the grape is juicy and sweet, the barley

is firm and forms the perfect skeleton, the spices

pop busily around the palate. No great age evident,

but the oak also chimes in with a few choice cocoa

notes; a shard of bitterness, but nothing which

subtracts from the gloss; as cask finishes go, this

one is just about perfect. Score:

94.5

(Jim Murray,

Whisky Bible

, 2014)

050070

700 mL

$82.95

Featured in

Autumn Spirit

TOMINTOUL 16-YEAR-OLD SPEYSIDE

GLENLIVET SINGLE MALT

TASTING NOTE: A fruity concoction of apples and

pears topped with vanilla ice cream; even the vaguest

hint of something smoky ... one of the noses of the

year; every bit as gentle as the [nose] promises, as the

light oil coat the palate with a fabulously intense and

delicately sweetened barley skin. The skeleton is a

playful oak; a wonderful multi-layered interplay of

malt and oak-vanillas. Long, curiously spice free and

increasingly dry but hugely sophisticated; confirms

Tomintoul’s ability to dice with greatness. Score:

94.5

(Jim Murray,

Whisky Bible

, 2014)

298422

700 mL

$117.95

Featured in

Autumn Spirit

EAU-DE-VIE

ALFRED SCHLADERER SCHWARZEN-

WALDER KIRSCHWASSER BLACK FOREST

CHERRY BRANDY

Product of Germany

TASTING NOTE: ... Appearance: Clear bright, no im-

purities whatsoever, on swirling it leaves a thick clear

coat on the inside of the glass, shows some legs,

then crinkly edges turning to a batch of small droplets

... First Impression: Luscious deep cherry, it has that

wonderful, very specific smell that only comes from

black cherries from the Black Forest – a depth and

complexity other cherry brandies usually lack. Taste:

The bouquet is a wonderful prelude to the follow

through – the actual taste. This Kirschwasser seems

to have captured the very essence of the morello

cherry, dryish long finish with a wonderful afterglow

... Wonderfully subtle, deep and textured ... Classic.

Score:

9 out of 10

(Chris Carlsson,

spiritsreview.com

)

364679

350 mL

$39.95

IL MERLOT DI NONINO

MONOVITIGNO GRAPPA

Distillata con metodo artisanale, Italy

(Nonino)

The Nonino family pioneered the practice of distilling

single grape varieties to create sophisticated and

refined grappas with distinct character. F. Paul Pacult

awarded this grappa a rating of

HHHHK

in his 2008

publication

Kindred Spirits 2

, calling it “succulently

sweet and stunningly ripe and compelling ... a svelte,

sinewy grappawhich is more elegant than powerful, but

that’s not to say that there isn’t some fire in the hole.”

657734

700 mL

$65.95

FORTIFIED

EUROPEAN FORTIFIED

COCCHI STORICO VERMOUTH DI TORINO

Italy

TASTING NOTE: An intensely medicinal, beeswax

and honey, burnt orange peel and caramel-scented

vermouth here, at the more intense end of the

spectrum to be sure. This is not a subtle mixing

vermouth but the main show itself, with full, intensely

sweet palate reeled in by bitterness. There’s a

resemblance to malmsey madeira or sweet oloroso

sherry, passing by tawny port, with unique celery

seed, cinnamon, agave/tequila notes on the finish –

a tour de bouche to be sure. This would mix nicely for

those more smoky Manhattans, in fact anything

with bourbon or rye, with a maraschino cherry to top

it off. A vermouth that should be on hand in every

liquor cabinet for the more sultry cocktails. Score:

90

(John Szabo, MS,

winealign.com

, Oct. 15, 2015)

Sweet

461913

(S)

750 mL

$27.95

1

PORT

FONSECA LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE

PORT 2011

Unfiltered, DOP

TASTING NOTE: ...108 grams per liter of residual

sugar and was bottled in 2016, according to the

label. Rather gorgeous, this fresh, tight and powerful

Fonseca is perfectly focused, extracted and tightly-

wound, finishing with intensity of flavor laced with

some herbs and a hint of garrigue. Yet, everything is

always in a very controlled fashion brilliantly supported

by its structure. This is a beauty, another super

2011 LBV. Drink Date: 2016-2027. Score:

92

(Mark

Squires,

robertparker.com

, April 27, 2016)

Sweet

087551

(S)

750 mL

$18.95

2