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SATURDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2017

VINTAGES

33

UNCORK SOMETHING GREAT • SATURDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2017

HENRY OF PELHAM ESTATE

PINOT NOIR 2012

6

VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment

TASTING NOTE: ... we are gifted another look back

at then winemaker (and current faculty/coordinator

of Niagara College’s wine programs) Ron Giesbrecht’s

work. H of P’s pinot noir are in a distinct class of their

own, able to age slowly, gracefully and without much

oxidative/evolutionary change in their first five or six

years. This ’12 has hardly budged an inch. It persists

as this ripe sour cherry, tart and highly charged

wine. The fruit is more than very much alive, the acidity

gainfully employed and the bitter tannic presence

a membrane that holds it all together. Life changes

should really begin to take effect in 2019. Drink

2017-2022. Score:

90

(Michael Godel,

wine

align.com

, Feb. 8, 2017)

Medium-bodied & Fruity

268391

(XD) 750 mL

$24.95

2

HENRY OF PELHAM SPECK FAMILY

RESERVE BACO NOIR 2015

6

VQA Ontario

TASTING NOTE: The recently created Speck Family

Reserve tier of baco noir features very lowyielding vines

planted in 1982 in a section of south-facing, clay-

limestone vineyard adjacent to Short Hills Provincial

Park. (The label doesn’t say Short Hills Bench by the

way, because VQA rules absurdly dictate that hybrids

are not worthy of having their origin pinpointed). It was

barrel selected after ageing 18+ months in American

oak. The nose is very impressive with generous oak

smoke, spice, cigar and pepper nicely married to the

blackberry, vaguely beet like aromas of baco. It is full

bodied with classic, almost tart-edged acidity. There is

moderate, balanced tannin andwarming, also balanced

13.5% alcohol. The length is excellent. Decant, serve

with rich red meats. Will cellar to 2030. Score:

92

(David Lawrason,

winealign.com

, Jan. 25, 2017)

Medium-bodied & Fruity

461699

(D)

750 mL

$24.95

2

KEW VINEYARDS

PINOT NOIR 2013

6

Estate vineyard, VQA Beamsville

Bench, Niagara Escarpment

TASTING NOTE: This opens with delightful, lifted

violet tones, with strawberry, raspberry, spice and a

hint of garrigue on the nose. Intensely flavoured,

with a great mouthfeel and superb replays. Elegantly

styled, with dried fruit and earth emerging on the

palate along with some rustic undertones. Long and

complex. Very good. (Vintages panel, March 2017)

Medium-bodied & Fruity

520080

(XD) 750 mL

$23.95

2

Featured in Local Talent

NORMAN HARDIE UNFILTERED NIAGARA

PINOT NOIR 2016

6

VQA Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: Another great Pinot from Norman

Hardie, one of Ontario’s best producers. The 2016

Unfiltered Niagara Pinot Noir straddles the Light-

and Medium-bodied categories. Lifted floral notes

with cedar, raspberry, cherry, earth and spice in a

lithe, elegant, seamless package. A touch of mineral

dots the i’s and crosses the t’s on the layered, complex

finish. Enjoy this tonight with roast beef and autumn

vegetables or put it aside and follow its development

for 8-10 years. (Vintages panel, Sept. 2017)

Medium-bodied & Fruity

208702

(XD) 750 mL

$45.00

2

Featured in Local Talent

ROSEWOOD LOCK, STOCK AND

BARREL 2014

6

VQA Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: The Lock, Stock and Barrel from

Rosewood is their top tier Bordeaux blend. It is the

definition of terroir driven winemaking. The 2012

and 2013 were both outstanding wines from their

respective vintage, but completely different if you were

to pour them side by side. It would seem the 2014

vintage may be somewhat of a sleeper for red wine

lovers in Ontario. The red wines I have been tasting

from this vintage have been outstanding. This wine is

no exception. It brings raspberry, blackberry and plum

to the bottle and to the glass. The tannin is firm, this

wine will need some time in a decanter or in a cellar for

3-5 years to relax before approach. Enjoy this with

grilled or roasted red meats. Score:

HHHHK

(André

Proulx,

andrewinereview.ca

, Feb. 8, 2017 )

Medium-bodied & Fruity

471789

(XD) 750 mL

$39.95

2

VIENI PRIVATE RESERVE

CABERNET FRANC 2012

6

VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula

TASTING NOTE: Cabernet Franc, parent of Cabernet

Sauvignon, ripens earlier than its offspring and thus is

well suited to Niagara’s growing season. In warm

vintages such as 2012, the grape can make impres-

sively complex, intense wines. This one offers tangy

raspberry, grilled herbs, cocoa and spicy clove notes.

Serve with baked ham and grainy mustard, or pork

chops and autumn harvest veggies. (Vintages panel,

Sept. 2016)

Medium-bodied & Fruity

499947

(XD) 750 mL

$22.95

2

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