Tasting note: Always a high achiever. Rich red, with spice, vanilla and plummy character. Full- to medium-bodied, with plenty of rounded tannins and a medium finish. Bit tough now, but better with time. Best after 2008. Score - 90. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2003)
CHÂTEAU LA GAFFELIÈRE 1998
1er Grand Cru Classé (B), St.-Émilion
957597 (XD) 750 mL $ 95
Tasting note: A big, Porty, raisiny wine. Very ripe plum and hints of mineral and spice on the nose. Full-bodied, thick and rich, with big, silky tannins. Slightly hot finish. Rather rustic but impressive. Best after 2006. Score - 92. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, Jan. 31, 2001)
CHÂTEAU LAFON-ROCHET 1995
4e Cru, St.-Estèphe
17871 (XD) 750 mL $ 69
Tasting note: The best wine ever produced at this estate. So sexy, so wonderful now -- but be patient. Dark in color, ruby, inky. Blueberries, cream and vanilla character. Full-bodied, with full yet fine tannins. It literally massages your palate. Best after 2001. Score - 93. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, Jan. 31, 1998)
CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE LAS CASES 2001
2e Cru, St.-Julien
29892 (XD) 750 mL $ 219
Tasting note: This is very floral and perfumed with lots of violets, roses and berries. Full-bodied, with ultrafine tannins and a racy finish. Superfresh and long. Focused and clean. Best after 2010. Score - 94. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2004)
CHÂTEAU PALMER 1995
3e Cru, Margaux
29918 (XD) 750 mL $ 275
Tasting note: Elegant and beautiful. Outstanding Palmer. Extremely pretty aromas of black cherries and vanilla. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, cherry, vanilla aftertaste. A delightful wine. Best after 2000. Score - 94. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2003)
CHATEAU PÉDESCLAUX 2004
5e Cru, Pauillac
29926 (XD) 750 mL $ 42
Château Pédesclaux is a lesser known Pauillac estate which is neighbour to Châteaux Mouton Rothschild and Pontet-Canet. It was founded in 1810 by Urbain Pierre Pédesclaux and was then sold to the Count de Gastebois. Lucien Jugla started as a tenant farmer in the early thirties and purchased the château in 1950; his family still runs the small estate today.
CHÂTEAU POTENSAC 1996
Médoc
29934 (XD) 750 mL $ 59
"This is the most amazing wine this estate has ever produced…A sleeper of the vintage," wrote Robert Parker Jr. (www.erobertparker.com, April 1999) Decanter gave this "powerful" Bordeaux **** out of five.
Tasting note: Lots of ripe fruit, with intense aromas of blackberries and raspberries and layers of fruit flavors. Full-bodied, round and rich. Best after 2000. Score - 90. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, Web Only (1999))
CHÂTEAU TALBOT 2000
4e Cru, St.-Julien
29942 (XD) 750 mL $ 139
Tasting note: Beautiful aromas of raspberries, Indian spices, crushed flowers and berries. Full-bodied, with a solid core of ripe fruit and silky tannins. Long and delicious. A very fine and pretty wine. Best Talbot in years. Best after 2010. Score - 93. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2003)
CHÂTEAU TALBOT 1999
4e Cru, St.-Julien
936013 (XD) 750 mL $ 79
Tasting note: A ringer hiding in a Gruaud-Larose vertical tasting, and it's quite apparent that this is a very different wine. An unusual nose, of smoke and roast ham - perhaps an oak derived aroma - which dissipates to leave tarry fruit and a more recognisable oaky note of sweet caramel. Full and rounded on the palate, but not giving lots of flavour or character. Not as concentrated as the other wines, although there is plenty of texture and structure. Good acidity. Quite closed at present. This seemed very unusual compared to the other vintages of Gruaud-Larose, but once the label was revealed all became clear. Good, potentially very good. (Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com, July 2003)
France Red Wines May 2007
Burgundy
ALBERT BICHOT CLOS-DE-VOUGEOT 2004
Grand Cru, Domaine du Clos Frantin
29538 (D) 750 mL $ 129
Tasting note: A more deeply pitched nose that offers notes of wood spice, warm earth and ripe red and black fruit leads to rich, full and relatively powerful flavors imbued with a subtle sweetness and intensity on the chewy and slightly dry finish. There is good overall volume and the mouth feel is on the strict side as befits the austerity of a young Clos de Vougeot. I would give this 5 to 7 years of cellar time first. Drink: 2010+. Score - 89. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Jan. 1, 2007)
ALBERT BICHOT CORTON CLOS DES MARÉCHAUDES 2003
Grand Cru, Domaine du Pavillon
29512 (D) 750 mL $ 99
Tasting note: Ripe, jammy aromas introduce this opulent, concentrated red. Black cherry and cassis are the main themes, with dark chocolate and tobacco lurking in the background. The sweet fruit and tannins duke it out on the finish. Best from 2008 through 2022. Score - 93. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Oct. 15, 2006)
DOMAINE DU CHÂTEAU DE MEURSAULT POMMARD CLOS DES EPENOTS 2002
1er Cru
20651 (XD) 750 mL $ 49
A Gold Medal winner at the prestigious International Wine Challenge in 2004.
Tasting note: This is deliciously open on the nose with aromas of raspberry and cherry and plummy complexity. The follow through on the palate is exact with good varietal character and balanced spicy oak for added depth and complexity. Good velvety length. (Judging panel, International Wine Challenge 2004)
DOMAINE ROUX VOUGEOT LES PETITS VOUGEOTS 2003
940403 (D) 750 mL $ 75
Tasting note: Big, vibrant aromas of red cherry and tobacco. Silky, licorice-laced flavors of raspberry jam, cedar and tobacco. A great example of a super-ripe, but totally in control wine. Score - 94. (Todd M. Wernstrom, Wine News, April/May 2006)
HERVÉ ARLAUD MOREY ST-DENIS LES MILLANDES 2004
1er Cru
22418 (XD) 750 mL $ 69
Tasting note: A clear step up in ripeness relative to the villages wines and as it always is, this is an elegant Morey with airy but earthy red berry fruit aromas highlighting supple, forward and sweet flavors that evidence obvious minerality on the detailed and balanced finish. This is quite attractive with ample finishing punch. 2011+. Score - 87-90. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Jan. 2006)
ROBERT ARNOUX NUIT-ST-GEORGES LES POISETS 2004
22426 (XD) 750 mL $ 75
Tasting note: Good deep red. Reduced nose hints at leather and rare steak. Offers good stuffing, with flavors of medicinal black fruit and peppery spices. A village wine with very good persistence. Score - 87-90. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2006)
France White Wines - May 2007
Burgundy
CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS CHABLIS LES CLOS 2004
Grand Cru
598623 (XD) 750 mL $ 59
Tasting note: A firm, lemony white, with plenty of richness. Shows a stony, minerally side today, with a steely austerity that needs time to soften and reveal more complexity. Long, spice-tinged finish. Best from 2009 through 2020. Score - 92. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Sept. 30, 2006)
CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS CHABLIS VALMUR 2004
Grand Cru
641944 (XD) 750 mL $ 59
Tasting note: Though attractive now, this appealing white will improve with time in the bottle. Characteristic Chablis flavors of apple, mineral and citrus are augmented by oak spice, yet the mineral theme prevails. Shows a little heat on the finish. Best from 2008 through 2018. Score - 93. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Sept. 30, 2006)
CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS CHABLIS VAUDÉSIR 2004
Grand Cru
29751 (XD) 750 mL $ 59
Tasting note: Seethes with intensity, but requires time to reveal all its charms. Starts out with lemon and apple notes, with hints of peach, then adds vanilla accents from the oak maturation. Ends with a mineral affirmation of terroir. A beauty from start to finish. Best from 2009 through 2020. Score - 94. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Sept. 30, 2006)
DOMAINE DES MALANDES CHABLIS VAUDÉSIR 2004
Grand Cru
657312 (D) 750 mL $ 53
Tasting note: From cask this was quite generously oaked with more than a touch of vanilla and wood spice that has become relatively discreet from bottle as it frames ripe and expressive green fruit aromas that give way to delicious, concentrated and powerful flavors that possess excellent depth and length. This should be approachable young and displays plenty of Chablis character. Drink 2008+. Score - 92. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Oct. 2006)
ROUX PÈRE & FILS CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 2004
Grand Cru
29363 (XD) 750 mL $ 129
Tasting note: Bold, buttery and lush in texture. A mix of spice from new oak adds complexity to the baked apple and lemon flavors, with a mineral accent emerging on the finish. Seems more forward than its peers. Much better than previously reviewed. Drink now through 2018. Score - 92. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2007)
WILLIAM FÈVRE CHABLIS BOUGROS CÔTE BOUGuEROTS 2004
Grand Cru
28860 (XD) 750 mL $ 64.95
Tasting note: Minerals, chalk, rosemary, thyme, and white pepper are found in the nuanced aromatics of the sublime 2004 Chablis Bougros Cote Bouguerots (domaine). Produced from south-facing vines that bask in the sun whenever it appears, this wine reveals astounding amplitude, depth, concentration, and power. Its rich core is sappy, silky-textured, and presents intense liquefied stone flavors. Notes of fresh mint leaves appear in this offering's prolonged finish. Projected maturity: now-2016. Score - 95.(Pierre Rovani, www.erobertparker.com, June 2006)
WILLIAM FÈVRE CHABLIS LES PREUSES 2004
Grand Cru
8524 (XD) 750 mL $ 65
Wine critic Allen Meadows was effusive in his praise of this wine and awarded it a score of 95. (www.burghound.com, Oct. 1, 2006)
Tasting note: The 2004 Chablis Les Preuses (domaine) reveals a nose of intense purity. Its aromas of gravel, stones, candied citrus fruits, pears, and hints of toast lead to a crystalline, medium-bodied character. This feminine effort's broad personality is filled with minerals, stones, iodine, and fresh herbs whose flavors linger in its amazingly long, detailed finish. Projected maturity: 2007-2014. Score - 94.(Pierre Rovani, www.erobertparker.com, June 2006)
France Red Wines - May 2007
Rhône
BOIS DE BOURSAN CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TRADITION 2004
728014 (XD) 750 mL $ 35
Tasting note: The classic garrigue smells of roasted herbs, loamy soil notes, and pepper are present in the dark ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape. Quite broad, spicy, with excellent texture and purity, this wine tastes like the essence of Provence and smells as if you're walking through one of the local open-air marketplaces. Drink it over the next 7-8 years as it's on a relatively fast evolutionary track. Score - 90.(Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Feb. 2007)
DOMAINE FONT DE MICHELLE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2004
703512 (D) 750 mL $ 39
Tasting note: Ripe and smoky, with raspberry, plum sauce, truffle and violet notes that run through a round, fleshy finish. Nice minerality stretches it out. Drink now through 2022. Score - 91.(James Molesworth, www.winespectator.com, Nov. 15, 2006)
DOMAINE MATHIEU CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE VIN DI FELIBRE 2003
28209 (XD) 750 mL $ 65
Tasting note: A celebration of the poet Anselme Mathieu, who was a 19th century Provençal patriot, this wine is labeled both in the Provençal language as well as French. All this stuff surrounding the wine doesn't detract from its fine quality, its range of plums, black currants and bitter cherries and its intense ripe structure. The dryness at the back promises long aging. Score - 93. (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, Dec. 31, 2005)
JASMIN CÔTE-RÔTIE 2004
34165 (XD) 750 mL $ 65
Tasting note: Medium red. Fresh red berry and cherry aromas accented by minerals and spices. Fresh acidity sharpens the brisk, mineral-laced redcurrant, bitter cherry and graphite flavors. Smoked meat and tobacco tones emerge on the bright, structured finish. Score - 90. (Josh Reynolds, International Wine Cellar, Jan./Feb. 2007)
RAYMOND USSEGLIO CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE CUVÉE IMPÉRIALE 2004
22319 (XD) 750 mL $ 59
Tasting note: This is a classic Chateauneuf du Pape, redolent of aromas of seaweed, pepper, kirsch, spice box, and beautiful fruit flavors. The cuvee of old vines from a vineyard planted in the beginning of the 20th century, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale has a hallmark of extraordinary purity of black cherry and raspberry fruit with more minerality, a sweet, full-bodied, voluptuous palate, and superb definition and length with perfectly ripe tannins. The 2004 needs 2-3 years of cellaring and should keep 15 or more years. It is a brilliant wine. Score - (92-94).(Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Dec. 2006)
France White Wines - May 2007
Rhône
DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PÂPE LA CRAU BLANC 2005
736462 (XD) 750 mL $ 49
Tasting note: This 2005 was not reviewed at press time. Previous vintages were praised for their rich, layered flavours with mango, butter and pineapple dominating. Expect more of the same from this 2005 vintage as the vintage was very well-respected.
France White
Wines - May 2007
France - Alsace
DOMAINE PAUL BLANCK RIESLING FURSTENTUM 2002
Alsace Grand Cru
31575 (D) 750 mL $ 37
A Best-Value Trophy Winner at the 2006 Decanter World Wine Awards.
Tasting note: Reticent nose combines yellow fruits and flint. Lovely soil-driven flavors of peach, apricot, spices, flowers and flint show excellent penetration and intensity. Comes across as drier than the Schlossberg, with the wine's 15 grams of residual sugar well-buffered by a strong 9 grams of acidity. Full-bodied, gripping riesling with a strong personality. Score - 92. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, Nov./Dec. 2003)
DOMAINE PAUL BLANCK RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG 2003
Alsace Grand Cru
31583 (D) 750 mL $ 37
Tasting note: Bright yellow in colour. Fragrant, ripe and rich nose with touches of gunflint and citrus fruit. A little bitter, dry and thick on the attack, but the palate then displays great finesse, concentrated, with a long finish. Great wine, still somewhat immature but destined for a long life. Very good. (Thierry Meyer, degustateurs.com, Nov. 12, 2005)
HUGEL RIESLING JUBILEE 2004
731448 (XD) 750 mL $ 49
Tasting note: Peach and lemon flavors vie with the tart structure in this lean, sharp white. There's richness, but it's wound tight and needs time to integrate. Be patient, it has potential. Best from 2008 through 2018. Score - 93. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Oct. 15, 2006)
Champagne
G. H. MUMM GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE N/V
28159 (D) 750 mL $ 89
Tasting note: This is a classy package, and the wine lives up to it, showing extra dimensions of power and weight. The flavors are layered and unfold gracefully; apple to citrus to pineapple. Then it slides into stone, chalk and fennel, moving finally to a nicely etched, crystalline clarity as it slowly fades across the palate. Score - 92.(Paul Gregutt, Wine Enthusiast, Dec. 1, 2006)
J. LASALLE CHAMPAGNE SPECIAL CLUB BRUT 1997
27730 (D) 750 mL $ 59
Tasting note: Brassy gold color. Exotic and powerful scents of marzipan, chestnut honey, toffee apple and cappuccino are serious and brooding; I have a hard time imagining this as an aperitif. Dense and thick on the palate, showing rich apple pie and plum flavors which should pair well with the richest shellfish dishes or anything finished with brandy. This has serious hang time on the nutty, strongly praline back end. Score - 91. (Josh Reynolds, International Wine Cellar, Nov./Dec. 2005)
LANSON NOBLE CUVÉE BLANC DE BLANCS 1997
657502 (XD) 750 mL $ 125
Tasting note: Part of the new Noble Cuvée range from Lanson (which also includes a Pinot Noir/Chardonnay blend and a rosé). This is feather light, floating with its bubbles and zesty, citrus fruit flavors, and a dry, crisp aftertaste. Very much an aperitif Champagne. Score - 92. (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, Feb. 1, 2007)
MUMM DE CRAMANT GRAND CRU BRUT CHARDONNAY CHAMPAGNE
680587 (D) 750 mL $ 95
Tasting note: A viscous style, with fine supporting acidity, creating a contrast that sets the stage for honey, dough and hazelnut notes. Medium-bodied, with a brisk mineral aftertaste. Drink now through 2010. Score - 91. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Dec. 15, 2006)
PERRIER-JOUËT BELLE EPOQUE BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE 2002
267252 (D) 750 mL $ 350
The period before World War 1 is considered the belle époque, a time of comfort and prosperity that was destroyed forever by the Great War. This champagne bottle was created in 1902 to celebrate this golden age. By 1914, the design and Champagne were forgotten. In 1964, four of these bottles were discovered by Perrier-Jouët's cellarmaster and the company decided to resurrect the design. It was launched the white champagne two years later to commemorate Duke Ellington's 70th birthday. The Rosé is an even rarer event. It is always a limited edition, made in small quantities and only in the ver best years. This is without a doubt a pink champagne that speaks of class and elegance, so you must enjoy it during your most posh events.
PERRIER-JOUËT BLASON ROSÉ BRUT CHAMPAGNE N/V
28142 (D) 750 mL $ 75
Tasting note: Mature notes suggest more reserve wine in this complex, elegant version. Dried fruit, spice and woodsy flavors are backed by a firm structure. The fine texture and long finish combine for a terrific overall impression. Drink now through 2010. Score - 92. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Dec. 31, 2006)
POL ROGER CUVÉE SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL BRUT CHAMPAGNE 1996
958678 (XD) 750 mL $ 179
Tasting note: The structure of the 1996 vintage is softened by a fine, silky mousse in this intensely wrought bubbly. Fresh, with citrus, berry, nut and coffee aromas and flavors and a rounded finish. Drink now through 2015. Collectibles. Score - 93. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Nov. 30, 2006)
France Red Wines - May 2007
France - Loire
COULY-DUTHEIL CHINON CLOS DE L'ECHO CRESCENDO 2003
32185 (D) 750 mL $ 49
Tasting note: A muscular Chinon, packed with lots of bramble, blackberry, cassis bush, tobacco and dark olive paste notes. Long finish sports tannins, mineral and dark fruit. Should age wonderfully. Drink now through 2014. Score - 93. (James Molesworth, www.winespectator.com, Oct. 15, 2006)
