TASTING NOTE: This 7,500-case blend of 62% Merlot and 38% Cabernet Franc is one of the strongest wines of the vintage. A deep blue/purple hue is accompanied by classic aromas of smoky blueberries and blackberries as well as incense and floral notes in the background. A beautiful texture, opulence, flamboyance, and purity characterize this stunningly deep, full-bodied effort, another great success from proprietor Hubert de Bouard. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2022. Score - 95.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
CHÂTEAU AUSONE 2004 Saint-Émilion 1er Grand Cru (A)
672071
(XD) 750 mL $790
TASTING NOTE: One of the vintage's most compelling wines (what's new about that?), Alain Vauthier's beloved 2004 Ausone has closed down considerably since I tasted it out of barrel, but it remains among the most concentrated wines of the vintage. Furthermore, along with Petrus, it will probably be the longest-lived. A dense purple color is accompanied by a celestial perfume of blue and black fruits, wet stones, flowers, and incense. On the palate, the wine exhibits exceptional power and concentration, but this historic terroir has also provided a surreal lightness to the wine's impression. Beautiful flavors, sensational depth, and abundant structure suggest this 2004 will not be close to full maturity for 8-10 years. It should last for four decades. Score - 94.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC 2004 St-Émilion 1er Grand Cru (A)
670869
(XD) 750 mL $450
TASTING NOTE: Eighty thousand bottles of 2004 Cheval Blanc were produced from a blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. Subtle herb, menthol, cranberry, black currant, and licorice aromas emerge from this dark ruby/plum-colored wine. It is medium-bodied and elegant with plenty of sweet fruit, but not a lot of weight or intensity. The complexity and nobility of Cheval Blanc's gravelly terroir is apparent in this delicate, subtle St.-Emilion. Give it a few years to develop additional aromatics, and drink it over the following 12-15. Score - 90.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
CHÂTEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL 2004 St-Estèphe, 2e Cru
670927
(XD) 750 mL $145
TASTING NOTE: A beautiful example of the vintage, proprietor Michel Reybier and his top-notch winemaker, Jean-Guillaume Prats, have fashioned an exceptional wine displaying a dense ruby/purple color as well as a sweet perfume of boysenberries, black currants, cherries, pain grille, roasted herbs, and licorice. Medium-bodied with impressive density for the vintage, sweet tannin, and outstanding richness and length, it should be at its finest between 2009 and 2020+. Score - 92.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
CHÂTEAU DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU 2004 St-Julien, 2e Cru
664466
(XD) 750 mL $125
TASTING NOTE: One can't say enough about the efforts Bruno Borie is pouring into this wonderful estate that I have often called the "Lafite Rothschild of St.-Julien." An undeniable success, the 2004 Ducru boasts sweet aromas of creme de cassis, spring flowers, pain grille, licorice, and road tar. This pure, medium-bodied wine possesses moderately high tannin, superb concentration, good sweetness, and low acidity. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 25 years. Score - 93.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
CHÂTEAU HAUT BRION 2004 Pessac-Léognan, 1er Cru
671669
(XD) 750 mL $329
TASTING NOTE: The dark plum/ruby-hued 2004 Haut-Brion exhibits a noble, discrete, smoky bouquet revealing notions of plum liqueur, black currants, sweet cherries, and subtle earth. In addition to its aromatic complexity, this medium-bodied effort reveals classic elegance and delicacy as well as sweet fruit in the mouth and a long finish. Give this streamlined, civilized wine 2-4 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 20-25 years. It is amazingly similar to Haut-Brion's 1999. Score - 92.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
CHÂTEAU LA MONDOTTE 2004 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
669739
(XD) 750 mL $219
TASTING NOTE: Another brilliant effort from a small, 45-year-old vineyard on the clay and limestone plateau above Pavie and Pavie Decesse, this blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc was cropped at 30 hectoliters per hectare. A classically structured St.-Emilion, it boasts an opaque purple color as well as a gorgeous nose of black raspberries, creme de cassis, blueberries, espresso roast, and pen ink. Huge tannin, massive body, and tremendous richness as well as depth suggest it will benefit from 4-5 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 20-25. Score - 93.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
CHÂTEAU LATOUR 2004 Pauillac, 1er Cru
671396
(XD) 750 mL $899
TASTING NOTE: A terrific effort from Administrator Frederic Engerer and owner Francois Pinault, the dark ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Latour exhibits a strong cassis character intermixed with notes of crushed rocks, earth, cedar, and forest floor. Racy, elegant, but powerful with medium to full body, and sweet tannin, it will benefit from 5-7 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades. It is a very impressive offering. Score - 95.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 2004 Pauillac, 1er Cru
669820
(XD) 750 mL $395
TASTING NOTE: Beautiful aromas of crushed berries and chocolate, with hints of Indian spices. Full-bodied, with silky, velvety tannins and a long, caressing finish. A lovely wine for the vintage. This is the first wine from the new winemaking team at Mouton and is showing really well. Best after 2011. Score - 93.
(James Suckling,
www.winespectator.com,
March 31, 2007)
CHÂTEAU PAVIE DECESSE 2004 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
671545
(XD) 750 mL $175
TASTING NOTE: This small estate owned by Chantal and Gerard Perse (9 plus acres planted with 43-year-old vines) is composed of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. In 2004, yields were a low 28-30 hectoliters per hectare, resulting in 400 cases being produced. The dense ruby/purple-colored 2004 offers smoky creme de cassis, kirsch liqueur, crushed rock, and spring flower aromas. Opulent, flamboyant, rich, dense, and lavishly endowed, it possesses enough fruit and glycerin to nearly conceal its elevated tannin. This wine should be at its finest between 2012-2025. Score - 94.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
CHÂTEAU PICHON-LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE DE LALANDE 2004 Pauillac, 2e Cru
671677
(XD) 750 mL $129
TASTING NOTE: The 2004 Pichon Lalande is a strong effort for the vintage (much better than their underwhelming and much more expensive 2005). A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it exhibits a deep ruby/purple color as well as scents of cocoa, espresso roast, black cherries, and cassis. Medium to full-bodied, opulent, and fleshy, this classic wine cuts a stylistic persona somewhere between the 1995 and 1996. It can be drunk now or cellared for two decades. Score - 92.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
LES FORTS DE LATOUR 2004 Pauillac, 2nd wine of Château Latour
664276
(XD) 750 mL $199
TASTING NOTE: The estate's second wine continues to go from strength to strength. The 2004 Forts de Latour (includes 75% Cabernet Sauvignon) reveals a deep ruby/purple hue, classic evolved cedary, lead pencil, and cassis characteristics, medium body, beautiful sweetness of fruit, and a more forward, evolved character than its big sibling. Enjoy it over the next 15+ years. Score - 90.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
June 2007)
Burgundy
Côte de Nuits
Red
Wines
HENRI GOUGES NUITS ST-GEORGES CLOS DES PORRETS 2005 1er Cru
555631
(XD) 750 mL $73
TASTING NOTE: A more elegant mix of red, black, violet, earth, spice and game notes blends into extremely rich and full-bodied flavors that are dense, serious, concentrated, palate drenching and complex on the beautifully long finish. I quite like this as it offers buckets of character and excellent aging potential. Drink: 2015+. Score - 89-92.
(Allen Meadows,
www.burghound.com,
Jan. 1, 2007)
HENRI GOUGES NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2005
555581
(XD) 750 mL $47
TASTING NOTE: An unusually complex nose for a Nuits villages that displays a pretty mix of earthy red and black fruit plus spice and game hints that introduce rich, full and sweet flavors that culminate in a supple, forward and sappy finish. There is good balance with ample finishing drive. Excellent quality here. Drink: 2012+. Score - 87-90.
(Allen Meadows,
www.burghound.com,
Jan. 1, 2007)
HENRI GOUGES NUITS-ST-GEORGES LES PRULIERS 2005 1er Cru
555623
(XD) 750 mL $73
TASTING NOTE: This is a bit finer with more emphasis on spice and mineral-infused earth notes that can also be found on the complex and classic Nuits flavors that are at once robust but not really rustic, all wrapped in a sappy, dense and equally serious finish that offers outstanding length. This too possesses terrific aging potential and is recommended. Drink: 2015+. Score - 90-92.
(Allen Meadows,
www.burghound.com,
Jan. 1, 2007)
Côte de Beaune
Red
Wine
DOMAINE CLERGET VOLNAY SANTENOTS 2002 AC, 1er Cru
63271
(XD) 750 mL $53
Perched on a picturesque hillside 275 meters high, this pretty village, nestled into the landscape, dominates the vineyards down below. Exclusively reds, Volnay premiers cru wines represent more than half of the total surface of 220 hectares of vines., of which almost 100 hectares are situated in AOC recognized vineyards. Volnay wines are soft, feminine and robust. Giving off aromas of violets and red fruit, these delicate and distinguished wines are tender, but also know how to show off their concentrated flavours. One should wait between five to 10 years before opening a bottle of this magic wine ... [Santenots is a] bit more masculine than the Carelle, these wines retain the fruity and rich characteristics of a classic Volnay. ... Veal parmesan with butter noodles, grilled sardines with garlic butter, parsley-stuffed trout, duck à l'orange [are good food choices]. (www.domaine-clerget.com)
Burgundy
Côte de Beaune
White
Wine
BOUCHARD PÈRE ET FILS MONTRACHET 2005 Grand Cru
48074
(XD) 750 mL $559
TASTING NOTE: As it should be, this is the best wine here with its compelling nose of acacia blossom, distinctly ripe orchard fruit and gorgeously exotic spice notes that seem to keep changing every few minutes followed by classy, pure and fine flavors that possess both seriously impressive power and wonderful elegance, which continues onto the multi-dimensional, dense, long and palate staining finish. This is very much of a baby and will need plenty of time to really open up so be prepared to wait. Note that there was a trace of reduction on the nose so it would be best to decant this for 30 minutes first if curiosity gets the best of you! Drink: 2017+. Score - 97.
(Allen Meadows,
www.burghound.com,
July 1, 2007)
Chablis
White
Wine
CHRISTIAN MOREAU CHABLIS LES CLOS 2005
598623
(XD) 750 mL $61
TASTING NOTE: Slightly reduced but complex nose hints at citrus peel, white fruits, minerals, iodine and lichee. Juicy and very intense, with terrific thrust to the white peach and mineral flavors. This is quite expansive despite the fact that it was bottled just a week prior to my visit. Finishes bracing and very long, with superb delicacy. An impressively mineral style of wine for the vintage. Score - 92.
(Stephen Tanzer,
International Wine Cellar,
Nov./Dec. 2006)
CHRISTIAN MOREAU CHABLIS VAUDÉSIR 2005 Grand Cru
29751
(XD) 750 mL $61
TASTING NOTE: Steely minerality complicated by fresh hay and hazelnut on the nose. Sweet, broad and ripe, with strong fruit flavors of lemon and apple. Nicely aromatic in the mouth. Rich, very ripe and long on the aftertaste. About 40% of this juice was aged in barrel until February, then all of the cuvee spent the following three months in wood. Score - 90.
(Stephen Tanzer,
International Wine Cellar,
Nov./Dec. 2006)
Côte D'or
White
Wine
DOMAINE PARENT CORTON BLANC 2005 Grand Cru
46607
(XD) 750 mL $109
TASTING NOTE: Fruity and still a bit troubled on the nose, indeed this needed to be racked. The flavors however are classic Corton with a robust and even slightly sauvage quality to the big and powerful flavors that are delicious if somewhat particular as this really does drink like a Corton red, not withstanding the chardonnay base. To be sure, this is a good wine but not typical. Drink: 2012+. Score - 89-92.
(Allen Meadows,
www.burghound.com,
July 1, 2007)
HENRI GOUGES BOURGOGNE PINOT BLANC 2005
555649
(XD) 750 mL $25
Pinot Blanc in Burgundy is allowed only for wines labelled AC Bourgogne. They are still as rare as hen's teeth. In fact, Henri Gouges is one of the few who is still making these very intriguing wines in any commercial quantities. Be the first on your block to try a Pinot Blanc from Burgundy!
LEFLAIVE PULIGNY MONTRACHET LES FOLATIÈRES 2005 1er Cru
12393
(XD) 750 mL $159
TASTING NOTE: Here there is a bit more wood toast but it stops well short of being intrusive with otherwise elegant and relatively airy white flower and pear aromas that continue onto the rich, full, intense and detailed flavors built on a base of fine minerality, all wrapped in a racy and refined finish that packs real punch and length. Lovely. Drink: 2012+. Outstanding!
Score - 90-92.
(Allen Meadows,
www.burghound.com,
July 1, 2007)
TASTING NOTE: A discreet touch of pain grillé frames fresh and exotic aromas of peach, melon and mango that continue onto the round, rich and concentrated flavors that possess real texture due to the solid dry extract on the mouth coating and solidly long finish. This is not particularly elegant in 2005 but there's plenty of wine here. Drink: 2010+. Score - 88-90.
(Allen Meadows,
www.burghound.com,
July 1, 2007)
BOUCHARD PÈRE ET FILS MEURSAULT GENEVRIÈRES 2004 1er Cru
46532
(XD) 750 mL $83
TASTING NOTE: This is a considerable step up in elegance with its sexy, spicy, pure and classy aromas that are layered and wonderfully complex that are followed by strikingly detailed and transparent flavors that possess a positively gorgeous texture and a driving, energetic and stunningly long finish. This is a terrific example of the vineyard and highly recommended. Drink: 2011+. Outstanding! Score - 92-94.
(Allen Meadows,
www.burghound.com,
July 1, 2006)
DOMAINE VINCENT SAUVESTRE CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 2004 AC, Grand Cru
62133
(XD) 750 mL $99
TASTING NOTE: Fresh and racy, with an underlying intensity, this tastes of green apple, lemon and mineral, with spice accents from oak. The emphasis is on fruit and terroir, building to a long finish. Best from 2008 through 2020. Score - 92.
(Bruce Sanderson,
www.winespectator.com,
Sept. 30, 2006)
Rhône
Northern Rhône
Red Wine
BERNARD BURGAUD CÔTE-RÔTIE 2004
662312
(XD) 750 mL $72
TASTING NOTE: Juicy, with a racy mix of red and black fruit - cherry, plum and currant-followed by vibrant mineral, coffee and dark olive notes. Long, tangy finish. Fine typicity. Drink now through 2011. Score - 91.
(James Molesworth,
www.winespectator.com,
Dec. 15, 2006)
Rhône
Southern Rhône
Red Wine
DOMAINE DE LA VIEILLE JULIENNE CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2004
38182
(XD) 750 mL $73
TASTING NOTE: The 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the finest wines of the vintage. Deep ruby/purple with good acidity, dense, sweet, floral, black cherry, raspberry, and black currant notes all resonate in the aromatics and flavors. Quite full-bodied, richly textured, but with good acidity, this is a brilliant wine that should age effortlessly for 10-15+ years. Moreover, it has the advantage of being approachable enough to be drunk now. By the way, their normal blend of Chateauneuf du Pape is 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and the rest Counoise and Cinsault. Score - 92.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
Feb. 2007)
CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE HOMMAGE À JACQUES PERRIN 2004 AC
985622
(XD) 750 mL $259
TASTING NOTE: ... The 2004 is potentially one of the legendary Jacques Perrin cuvees since the debut vintage of 1989. The potentially perfect 2004 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin has turned out to be just an amazing wine and one of the profound examples of this cuvee the Perrins have produced. It certainly has all the power, density, and richness of the great years, but there is almost a surreal elegance and lightness for a wine this powerful and dense. Almost difficult to describe, the gorgeous multi-layered texture, and the heavenly perfume of smoked meats, flowers, blueberries, blackberries, creosote, and truffles is a knock-out. In the mouth, it is medium to full-bodied with incredible intensity, purity, and overall symmetry. There's nothing out of place in this remarkable wine, and it seems somewhat approachable already, yet it will no doubt have the uncanny ability to age for 25-40+ years. Score - 96-98.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
Feb. 2007)
Champagne
TARLANT CHAMPAGNE CUVÉE LOUIS BRUT
918292
(D) 750 mL $71
TASTING NOTE: Bright gold. Deep, honeyed, vaguely oxidative nose offers smoky apple, pear, orange and potpourri aromas, along with a toffee component. A rich style with broad pear and peach pit flavors deepened by brown butter and nutmeg. Toasty and dry on the long finish. Try this with a buttery lobster dish. Score - 90.
(Josh Raynolds,
International Wine Cellar,
Nov./Dec. 2006)
Loire
White Wine
NICOLAS JOLY CLOS DE LA BERGERIE 2005 AC Savennières Roches aux Moines
62620
(D) 750 mL $59
If there is a biodynamic hotspot in the Loire, this is it. Other top producers - Domaine Huet for example - have practised biodynamics for years, but none follow it so fervently as Nicolas Joly at Coulée de Serrant. This close adherence to what some regard as an extreme method of viticulture (agriculture in fact - the application of biodynamics is not limited to the vine) seems at odds with Joly's previous employment as a high-flyer for the Morgan Guaranty Trust, having previously graduated with an MBA from Columbia University. Nicolas Joly returned to the family estate to help his mother, by that time a widow, in 1976. ... The catalyst for ... change [for Joly] was a book on biodynamic agriculture, by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, which Joly discovered in 1981. Nicolas Joly read the book on a skiing holiday and found it a life-changing experience. Within four years Coulée de Serrant was run on entirely biodynamic principles. (www.thewinedoctor.com, June 2004) The intensity of the flavour and perfection of the balance cannot be denied. Is it just biodynamism or exceedingly talented winemaking or both? This vintage is thoroughly impressive, but you be the judge.
NICOLAS JOLY CLOS DE LA COULÉE-DE-SERRANT 2005 AC Savennières
62604
(D) 750 mL $105
Savennières was once among the most prized French wines. Louis XIV was apparently so smitten with a wine from the La Roche-aux-Moines vineyard that he decided to journey to Savennières to see for himself the source of this elixir; unfortunately, the royal coach got stuck in the mud en route and had to turn back. The same vineyard also produced what became a house wine in the court of the first Napoleon. However, the most celebrated Savennières comes from another vineyard, Clos de la Coulée-de-Serrant. Legendary 20th - century French food writer Curnonsky, dubbed the Prince of Gastronomes, famously declared Coulée-de-Serrant to be one of the five great white wines of France ... Coulée-de-Serrant makes headlines for a different reason these days: Its current owner is Nicolas Joly, the godfather of biodynamic winemaking, an ultra-organic, quasi-mystical approach to viticulture that has won the adherence of acclaimed wineries on both sides of the Atlantic. Thanks to Joly, Coulée-de-Serrant remains an iconic name in French viticulture ... (Mike Steinberger, www.slate.com, Oct. 10, 2007)
NICOLAS JOLY LES VIEUX CLOS 2005
62638
(D) 750 mL $44
Cistercian monks planted this historic vineyard with vines in 1130, and there have been 875 consecutive grape harvests ever since. The entire vineyard has been biodynamic since 1984. Since then, all synthetic chemical products, weed killers and the like have been banished from the whole estate, not simply from the vineyard. Regarded as a pioneer of Biodynamic Viticulture [Nicolas Joly's] wines are a truly natural expression of their place. Coulee de Serrant, Savennieres-Roche aux Moines, and Savennieres should be decanted ahead of tasting and served at 14 to 15 degrees celcius ... 2005 Les Vieux Clos - 3 hectares of vineyard produce another gorgeous example of Chenin Blanc. (www.thelivingvine.ca)
CHÂTEAU DE LA ROULERIE CHAUME 2003 Côteaux du Layon, 1er Cru
62190
(S) 500 mL $47
TASTING NOTE: Rich and pure, with fig, glazed peach, pear tartine and ginger notes that run through a long, creamy finish. Lovely mouthfeel and balance. Drink now through 2014.
Score - 92.
(James Molesworth,
www.winespectator.com,
Nov. 30, 2006)
Midi
Red
Wine
GÉRARD BERTRAND L'HOSPITALITAS 2004 AC Côteaux de Languedoc, La Clape
683532
(D) 750 mL $57
TASTING NOTE: A powerful, pure-tasting red, with concentrated flavors of cassis, blackberry, licorice and dark plum. Deft winemaking here, with a long, long finish of mineral, spice and hints of smoke. Impressive for its focus and structure. Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2014. Score - 93.
(Kim Marcus,
www.winespectator.com,
Feb. 28, 2007)
