French Wines - Classics Collection

France Red Wines - November 2007
Bordeaux
CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION 2004 Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé

669663 (XD) 750 mL $193.35

TASTING NOTE: Deep red-ruby. Bright aromas of dark fruits, licorice, rocks and leather, lifted by a light peppery nuance. Dense and broad, with a creamy, seamless mid-palate texture and a restrained sweetness. Finishes with fine, broad tannins and noteworthy persistence. With its very fresh style, this comes across as a bit more delineated today than the 2005 Haut-Brion. An excellent showing. Score - 91. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, May/June 2007)


CHÂTEAU L'EVANGILE 2004 Pomerol

670216 (XD) 750 mL $167.60

TASTING NOTE: A stunning example of the vintage, the 2004 l'Evangile is not far off the pace of their brilliant 2005. A blend of 89% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc (3,000+ cases produced), it exhibits a deep ruby/plum color, superb ripeness, and sweet blackberry, truffle, acacia flower, licorice, and toasty oak aromas. This knock-out effort is surprisingly rich, opulent, and fruity with good glycerin, medium to full body, and a stunning finish. It should drink beautifully young yet age for 15 or more years. Score - 93. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2007)


CHÂTEAU MARGAUX 2004 Margaux, 1^er Cru

670000 (XD) 750 mL $369

TASTING NOTE: The supple-textured 2004 Chateau Margaux is reminiscent of the 2001 or 1999. It exhibits a superb blue/ purple color to the rim as well as sweet aromas of flowers, blueberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and smoke, superb fruit intensity, medium body, classic elegance, and silky, sweet tannin in the long finish. This beauty can be drunk now or cellared for two decades or more. Score - 93. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com)


PAVILLON ROUGE DU CHÂTEAU MARGAUX 2004 Margaux, Second Wine of Château Margaux

509976 (XD) 750 mL $98.20

TASTING NOTE: Margaux's second wine, the 2004 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux, may turn out to be outstanding. Its deep ruby/purple hue is accompanied by fleshy notes of black currants, cherries, smoke, earth, and spring flowers. Lovely, ripe, and opulent, it is best consumed during its first 10-15 years of life. Score - 89. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2007)


CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC 2003 St-Émilion 1^er Grand Cru Classé (A)

595819 (XD) 750 mL $520.60

TASTING NOTE: Blackberry, mineral and lightly toasted oak. Subtle and complex. Full-bodied, with wonderfully sweet fruit character and ultrarefined tannins. Goes on and on. Gorgeous and seductive. Best after 2009. Score - 96. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2006)


CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU 2003 St-Julien, 2^e Cru

596460 (XD) 750 mL $191.40

Robert Parker gave this wine 96 points. TASTING NOTE: Intense aromas of blackberry, currant and cherry. Full-bodied, with masses of big, velvety tannins and a finish that lasts for minutes. A blockbuster. A classic big, juicy claret. Best after 2012. Score - 97. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2006)


CHÂTEAU MARGAUX 2003 Margaux, 1^er Cru

508903 (XD) 750 mL $1089.70

TASTING NOTE: Am I being too stingy with the 2003 Chateau Margaux? A wine of extraordinary complexity and intensity, it reveals a deep purple color, a style not unlike the 1990 Margaux (possibly even more concentrated), a velvety texture, and notes of spring flowers interwoven with camphor, melted licorice, creme de cassis, and pain grille. Not a blockbuster, it offers extraordinary intensity as well as a surreal delicacy/lightness. There is riveting freshness to this offering, which tips the scales at a lofty (for this estate) 13.5% alcohol, as well as an alluring sweetness and acces- sibility. It probably will tighten up over the next few years. Nevertheless, it is a profound Chateau Margaux that brings to mind a hypothetical blend of the 1982 and 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2035. Score - 99. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2006)


CHÂTEAU L'EGLISE-CLINET 2002 Pomerol

925032 (XD) 750 mL $173.55

Stephen Tanzer of International Wine Cellar also awarded this wine a score of 90. TASTING NOTE: Blackberry and dark chocolate aromas follow through to a medium-bodied palate, with silky tannins and a pretty, delicate finish. Very nice texture and refinement to this wine. I thought this would have evolved even better in barrel. Best after 2008. Score - 90. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2005)


CHÂTEAU MONTROSE 2001 St-Estèphe, 2^e Cru

45336 (XD) 750 mL $147.75

TASTING NOTE: Sweet notes of earth, compost, and thick, juicy black currant as well as cherry characteristics jump from the glass of this dense purple-colored 2001. Medium-bodied and rich, with moderately high tannin as well as surprising power and density, it is the most backward St.-Estephe of the vintage. A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it requires 5-6 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 15-16. Score - 91. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2004)


CHÂTEAU PALMER 2001 Margaux, 3^e Cru

731513 (XD) 750 mL $227.10

TASTING NOTE: A virile, muscular effort for this estate, the 2001 Palmer (a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot) exhibits a saturated purple color to the rim. Although closed and backward, it is surprisingly powerful, layered, and formidably endowed, revealing hints of charcoal, black fruits, earth, and underbrush. There is a lot going on in this offering, but it needs 5-7 years of cellaring to resolve its high tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Score - 90. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2004)


CHÂTEAU PAVIE 2001 St-Émilion, 1^er Grand Cru Classé (B)

5835 (XD) 750 mL $280.60

TASTING NOTE: One of the candidates for wine of the vintage ... again, the 2001 Pavie, from a magnificent south-facing vineyard planted primarily on limestone soil, is a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. After a six week maceration, it spent nearly 24 months in new oak prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Some Bordeaux brokers think it might be even better than the 2000 Pavie, but I do not agree. The inky/ruby/purple-colored 2001 exhibits a tight but promising nose of crushed stones, a liqueur of blackberries, cherries, and black currants, and subtle smoke and licorice in the background. Powerful, with impressive elegance, fine harmony among its elements, a multi-layered texture, it has a finish that lasts for 50+ seconds. There is considerable tannin, but it is well-integrated. Give it 3-4 years, and drink it over the next two decades. A profound effort for the vintage, it is an example of a perfectionist proprietor pushing the envelope of quality. Score - 96. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2004)


CHÂTEAU BAHANS HAUT-BRION 2000 Pessac-Léognan, Second wine of Château Haut-Brion

935718 (XD) 750 mL $128.90

TASTING NOTE: The dark ruby/purple- colored, deep, rich, medium-bodied 2000 Bahans Haut-Brion exhibits scents of graphite, black cherry liqueur, cassis, and minerals. This second wine has a lot in common with its bigger sibling, displaying impressive volume, depth, and com- plexity. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2016. Score - 90. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2003)


CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC 2000 St-Émilion, 1^er Grand Cru Classé (A)

8482 (XD) 750 mL $1754.05

TASTING NOTE: This closed, backward blend of 53% Merlot and 47% Cabernet Franc boasts a saturated purple color along with a reticent but striking bouquet of blackberries, blueberries, truffles, and mocha. In spite of its tightness, aeration reveals scents of licorice, menthol, and saddle leather. Opulent and full-bodied, with low acidity, sweet tannin, and a 60-second finish, it is unquestionably as profound as the 1990 and 1982. I still believe the 2000 has the potential to be the most compelling Cheval Blanc since the mythical 1947 and 1949, but patience is required. It should merit a three digit score in 7-10 years, but it is closed at present. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030+. Note: The original score for this wine was 98 in The Wine Advocate but it is changed to 100 per Mr. Parker as of August, 2006. Score - 100. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2003)


CHÂTEAU LATOUR 2000 Pauillac, 1^er Cru

682161 (XD) 750 mL $1125.40

Robert Parker gave this wine 98 points. TASTING NOTE: A young wine that electrifies every taste bud in your mouth. Compacted aromas of crushed currants and minerals, with roses and lilacs. Full-bodied, with masses of silky, refined tannins and a finish that lasts for minutes. Stunning. Best Latour since 1990. Best after 2012. Score - 100. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2003)


CHÂTEAU MALESCOT ST. EXUPÉRY 2000 Margaux, Grand Cru Classé

948380 (XD) 1500 mL $294.50

TASTING NOTE: This estate has been making fine wine for over a decade but never receives the attention it deserves. A great effort, the 2000 Malescot St.-Exupery exhibits a deep ruby/purple color along with a sweet nose of high quality oak, minerals, tobacco, black currants, and intriguing floral and anise notes. A wine of great purity, flavor concentration, and uncanny depth that seems to build in the mouth, this is a classic example of a quintessentially elegant, medium to full-bodied Bordeaux that is light on its feet, and impressively nuanced, yet concentrated. Gorgeous! Anticipated maturity: 2007-2022. Score - 92. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2003)


CHÂTEAU LA CROIX ST. GEORGES 1999 Pomerol

10017 (XD) 750 mL $127.95

TASTING NOTE: The debut vintage, La Croix St.-Georges' 1999 is even better than I anticipated. It is an amazingly opaque purple-colored wine with extraordinary fat and richness, concentrated, jammy blackberry and cherry fruit, and liqueur-like intensity. The wine is multi-layered, extremely generous, and sumptuous on the palate, with a remarkable finish. It is a star of the vintage. Wow! Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020. Score - 93. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2002)


CHÂTEAU MONTROSE 1999 St-Estèphe, 2^e Cru

593707 (XD) 750 mL $153.70

TASTING NOTE: Very fine indeed, offering complex aromas of berries, grilled meat and tobacco, with racy tannins and a long finish. Medium- to full-bodied. Better than from barrel. Best after 2005. Score - 90. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2002)


CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 1999 Pauillac, 1^er Cru

607671 (XD) 750 mL $357

TASTING NOTE: The beautiful 1999 Mouton Rothschild may be a modern day clone of their 1962 or 1985. Its saturated ruby/purple color is followed by sumptuous aromas of cedar wood, creme de cassis, wood smoke, coffee, and dried herbs. The wine is forward, lush, and full-bodied. It is already complex as well as succulent, fleshy, and long. Tannin in the finish suggests more nuances will emerge in 4-5 years. It is a complex, classic Mouton. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030. Score - 93. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2002)


CHÂTEAU GRAND MAYNE 1998 St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé

686485 (XD) 750 mL $131.90

TASTING NOTE: The 1998 has continued to gain weight, richness, and volume. Even better from bottle than it was from barrel, this may be the most concentrated and powerful Grand Mayne yet produced. A saturated purple color is accompanied by a phenomenal nose of licorice, smoke, graphite, and cassis aromas (reminiscent of dry vintage port). This huge, massive effort is low in acidity, highly extracted, with an unctuous texture, gobs of glycerin, and a multidimensional, chewy, long finish. A dazzling wine, it is undoubtedly a sleeper of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2020. Score - 93. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2001)


CHÂTEAU PICHON-LONGUEVILLE BARON 1998 Pauillac

45260 (XD) 750 mL $135.85

TASTING NOTE: A definitive Pauillac, the dense purple-colored 1998 Pichon-Baron offers up a sweet bouquet of licorice, smoke, asphalt, blackberries, and creme de cassis. In the mouth, the wine is elegant rather than full-blown, with medium body, sweet fruit, nice texture on the attack and mid-palate, and moderate tannin in the long finish. No, this is not as profound as the 1996, 1990 or 1989, but it is an outstanding effort. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020. Score - 90. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2001)


CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC 1996 St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé (A)

658757 (XD) 750 mL $455.15

TASTING NOTE: The elegant, moderately weighted 1996 Cheval Blanc reveals a deep garnet/plum, evolved color. Quintessentially elegant, with a complex nose of black fruits, coconut, smoke, and pain grille, this medium-bodied wine exhibits sweet fruit on the attack, substantial complexity, and a lush, velvety-textured finish. It is very soft and evolved for a 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2015. Score - 90. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 1999)


CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAGES LIBÉRAL 1996 Pauillac, 5e Cru

45328 (XD) 750 mL $111.10

TASTING NOTE: A rather discreet style, with understated currant and berry aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with firm tannins and a silky, fruity aftertaste. Needs time to open a bit. Best after 2003. Score - 88. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, Jan. 31, 1999)


CHÂTEAU PALMER 1996 Margaux, 3e Cru

929968 (XD) 750 mL $227.10

TASTING NOTE: This wine, a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot, is performing well after its July, 1998 bottling. It boasts an impressively saturated purple color, in addition to a backward yet intense nose of black plums, currants, licorice, and smoke. Following terrific fruit on the attack, the wine's structure and tannin take over. There is plenty of sweet fruit, and the tannin is well-integrated, but the wine requires 7-8 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2028. Score - 91. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 1999)


CHÂTEAU LATOUR 1995 Pauillac, 1er Cru

578765 (XD) 750 mL $649.50

TASTING NOTE: A beauty, the opaque dense purple-colored 1995 exhibits jammy cassis, vanillin, and minerals in its fragrant but still youthful aromatics. Medium to full-bodied, with exceptional purity, superb concentration, and a long, intense, ripe, 40-second finish, this is a magnificent example of Latour. As the wine sat in the glass, scents of roasted espresso and toasty new oak emerged. This classic will require considerable cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2050. Score - 96. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2000)


CHÂTEAU PALMER 1995 Margaux, 3e Cru

905083 (XD) 750 mL $256.85

TASTING NOTE: Bottled in July, 1997, this wine includes an extremely high percentage of Merlot (about 43%). It is a gloriously opulent, low acid, fleshy Palmer that will be attractive early and keep well. Dark ruby/ purple-colored, with smoky, toasty new oak intertwined with gobs of jammy cherry fruit, and floral and chocolate nuances, this medium to full-bodied, plump yet elegant wine is impressive. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020. Score - 90. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Feb. 1998)


CHÂTEAU LATOUR 1988 Pauillac, 1er Cru

682252 (XD) 750 mL $490.85

TASTING NOTE: The best showing yet for a wine from this under-rated vintage, the dark garnet-colored 1988 Latour reveals slight amber at the edge. A bouquet of melted tar, plums, black currants, cedar, and underbrush is followed by a sweet entry, with medium to full body, excellent ripeness, and mature tannin. It is a classic, elegant Latour with more meaty, vegetable-like flavors than are found in a riper year, such as 1989 and 1990. The 1988 has just begun to enter its plateau of maturity, where it should remain for 25 years. Anticipated maturity: now-2025. Score - 91. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2000)


CHÂTEAU PETIT VILLAGE 1982 Pomerol

5819 (XD) 750 mL $332.20

TASTING NOTE: Good full red with a hint of amber at the rim. Superripe aromas of redcurrant, cherry, roast coffee and menthol; nearly liqueur-like jammy sweetness on the nose. Rich, fleshy and deep, with berry and chocolate flavors along with a faint green note. Rather Burgundian in character. Finishes with slightly dry-edged tannins. Drink over the next eight to ten years. Score - 89. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, July/Aug. 2002)


France White Wines - November 2007
Bordeaux
CHÂTEAU LAVILLE HAUT-BRION 2004 Pessac-Léognan

670976 (XD) 750 mL $282.60

TASTING NOTE: La Mission-Haut-Brion's white wine offering, the 2004 Laville Haut-Brion, exhibits waxy notes of honeyed citrus and orange rind in an opulent, medium to full-bodied style with lovely fruit and acidity, a striking minerality, and a long finish displaying notions of brioche and smoky wood. It will be drinkable young, but should keep for 20-25 years. Score - 91. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2006)


DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER BLANC 2004 Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

45443 (XD) 750 mL $131.90

TASTING NOTE: (88% sauvignon blanc and 12% semillon) Very pale color. Pungent, high-toned aromas of pineapple, grapefruit, quinine, ginger, mint, minerals and flowers. Densely packed and succulent, with refreshing, sharply delineated flavors of lime, grapefruit, mint and minerals. Offers a compelling sweetness buffered by bright acidity. At once supple and gripping, and very long and lively on the back end. This is 13% alcohol without any chaptalization. A great early showing. Score - 92-94. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, May/June 2005)


CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITE BLANC 2003 Pessac-Léognan

45427 (XD) 750 mL $98.20

TASTING NOTE: Apple, honey and lemon character. Full-bodied, with ripe fruit and an aftertaste of lemon rind, spice and honey. Needs some time to open. Excellent. Best after 2007. Score - 93. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, Feb. 28, 2007)


CHÂTEAU D'YQUEM 2001 Sauternes, 1^er Cru Supérieur

682518 (S) 375 mL $475.95 503870 (S) 750 mL $960.80

The 2001 Château d'Yquem also received a perfect score of 100 points from the Wine Spectator. TASTING NOTE: The 2001 Yquem reveals a hint of green in its light gold color. While somewhat reticent aromatically, with airing, it offers up honeyed tropical fruit, orange marmalade, pineapple, sweet creme brulee, and buttered nut-like scents. In the mouth, it is full-bodied with gorgeously refreshing acidity as well as massive concentration and unctuosity. Everything is uplifted and given laser-like focus by refreshing acidity. This large-scaled, youthful Yquem appears set to take its place among the most legendary vintages of the past, and will age effortlessly for 75+ years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2100+. Score - 100. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2005)


France Red Wines - November 2007
Burgundy - Côte de Nuits
BOUCHARD PÈre et fils CLOS-VOUGEOT 2005 Grand Cru

46540 (XD) 750 mL $188.40

TASTING NOTE: Deep ruby-red. Knockout nose offers black cherry, violet, truffle, minerals and dark chocolate. Suave on entry, then quite backward in the middle following the expressive nose, and dominated by its firm tannic spine. The very unevolved flavors of black cherry, minerals and spices need more elevage But this should be strong. Score - (91-94). (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2007)


DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI ÉCHÉZEAUX 2004 Grand Cru

723122 (XD) 750 mL $237

TASTING NOTE: In a vintage that produced many lighter wines, this wine is anything but. It is ripe, rich, fat and fuller bodied than most other reds from the area. Yet, its layered aromas and flavors combine red cherries, spices, violets and roasted bread. Showing a bit of varietal velvet in texture, the wine shows a slight tilt to leanness at the back of the palate that adds to the wine's overall sense of elegance and restraint. Score - 91. (Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wines, May 2007)


DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI GRANDS ÉCHEZEAUX 2004 Grand Cru

721316 (XD) 750 mL $385.70

TASTING NOTE: Good medium red. Much less forthcoming on the nose than the Echezeaux, hinting at black cherry, flowers and mint; the only one of these 2004s to show a slight vegetal peppery quality. Then sweet, primary and young on the palate, with very good definition and grip to the black fruit and pepper flavors. Finishes with firm, complex tannins. This rather austere but elegant wine needs a good six to eight years of cellaring. The team removed about 30% to 40% of the stems in 2004. Score - 91 (+?). (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2007)


DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI LA TÂCHE 2004 Grand Cru

721654 (XD) 750 mL $669.30

TASTING NOTE: Good bright, deep red. Wonderfully perfumed, nuanced nose offers raspberry, smoke, earth, white truffle and this vineyard's typical cocktail of Oriental spices. Compellingly silky-sweet and suave on the palate, with great aromatic lift to the red fruit, spice and mineral flavors. This offers a rare combination of high and low tones on the nose and palate. Taut and sharply focused wine, finishing with superb, palate-saturating minerally persistence and great finesse of tannins. A great 2004. Score - 94. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2007)


DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI RICHEBOURG 2004 Grand Cru

737379 (D) 750 mL $584.05

TASTING NOTE: We are about to commit a heresy. This wine is about as close to a California Pinot as one sees in this group, and while it is clearly not from California, it is the most solid of the group and, perhaps a bit less elegant. Yet, if one is looking for power with nuance, this is the wine for you. And us. Score - 94. (Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wines, May 2007)


DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI ROMANÉE ST. VIVANT 2004 Grand Cru

721399 (D) 750 mL $550.30

TASTING NOTE: Medium red. Aromas of red cherry and Oriental spices, with a liqueur-like aspect. Sweet, aromatic and penetrating, with lovely acidity giving shape and life to the silky, slowly mounting flavors. In a distinctly feminine style, and more expressive in the mouth today than the Grands-Echezeaux. A supple, suave, sappy wine with a light touch. Finishes long, with dusty tannins. Score - 92. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2007)


DOMAINE FAIVELEY CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE 2004 Grand Cru

722132 (XD) 750 mL $183.45

TASTING NOTE: An almost improbably elegant and pure nose of redcurrant, leather, kirsch, plum and tea and leather hints lead to explosively spicy, powerful and linear full-bodied flavors that culminate in a kaleidoscopic finish of breathtaking proportions. The only nit on this beauty is a hint of warmth though this may diminish with time as the flavors take on more weight and depth. A beauty in the making and one that will age for more than 2 decades. Drink: 2016+. Score - (91-94). (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Jan. 2006)


DOMAINE FRANÇOIS LAMARCHE LA GRANDE RUE 2004 Grand Cru, Monopole

6841 (XD) 750 mL $215.20

La Grand Rue vineyard is sandwiched between La Tache and La Romanée Conti, sharing the same soil and aspect as its illustrious neighbours. TASTING NOTE: (aged in 80% new oak) Medium red. Sappy aromas of red cherry, rose petal, minerals and coffee. Fat, supple and full, with impressive mid-palate breadth. Pepper and spice notes add complexity. This one is dry in a positive way. The longest of these '04s, finishing with fine tannins and lingering spice character. Score - (89-92). (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2006)


DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES NUITS-ST-GEORGES CLOS DES PORRETS ST-GEORGES 2004 1^er Cru

693606 (XD) 750 mL $71.40

TASTING NOTE: Firm and tight now, with a beam of black cherry, floral and mineral notes. Has a sappy intensity and a sweetness to the fruit that lingers on the spicy finish. Best from 2008 through 2015. Score - 92. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, May 15, 2007)


DOMAINE ROBERT ARNOUX VOSNE-ROMANÉE LES SUCHOTS 2004 1^er Cru

22434 (XD) 750 mL $197.35

TASTING NOTE: Arnoux is consistently the reference standard for Suchots and the 2004 is a most impressive effort featuring a nose of violet and floral aromas generously laced with spice and tea notes followed by textured, sweet, sappy and mineral-infused medium full flavors that offer a gorgeously seductive mouth feel and stunning length. This is classy juice and while it's not quite in the league of the RSV [Romanée-St-Vivant], it's not far off. One of the best 1ers of the vintage. Drink: 2014+. Score - (92-94). (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Jan. 2006)


FAIVELEY ÉCHÉZEAUX 2004 Grand Cru

721613 (XD) 750 mL $111.10

TASTING NOTE: A ripe, spicy and serious nose of earthy black pinot fruit with a hint of espresso merges into supple, sweet, rich and mouth coating flavors that offer real volume and are forward, fine and generous yet there is real sense of class and grace here. This is unusually refined for Echézeaux yet it will be capable of at least two decades of age. Drink: 2014+. Score - (90-92). (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Jan. 2006)


FAIVELEY MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN 2004 Grand Cru

736009 (XD) 750 mL $133.90

TASTING NOTE: This isn't nearly as refined or elegant but there is an intensely sauvage, even animale character plus serious aromatic complexity to the earthy red fruit nose that continues onto the powerful, deep and expansive flavors that are solidly structured but not hard, culminating in a mouth coating and exceptionally long finish. Drink: 2014+. Score - (91-93). (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Jan. 2006)


LOUIS JADOT GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS SAINT-JACQUES 2004 1^er Cru

944116 (XD) 750 mL $104.15

TASTING NOTE: Medium bright red. Initially reticent nose showed raspberry, bitter cherry, red licorice, flowers and minerals with extended aeration. Broad, ripe and sweet but unforthcoming and much less expressive today than the Estournelles. Strong material here but a bit youthfully disorganized, with an edge of acidity. But the sweet tannins and long finish suggest that this will round into form with five or six years of aging. Score - 91(+?). (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2007)


DOMAINE BERTAGNA NUITS ST. GEORGES LES MURGERS 2003 1^erCru

38158 (D) 750 mL $118

TASTING NOTE: Superb aromas of minerals drenched in black fruits can be found in the nose of the 2003 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Murgers. Packed with fleshy sweet blueberries and assorted dark fruits, this powerful, medium-bodied effort is highly expressive, forward, and admirably structured by ripe tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Score - 92. (Pierre Rovani, www.erobertparker.com, Aug. 2005)


JEAN-CLAUDE BOISSET CLOS DE VOUGEOT 2003 Grand Cru

47092 (XD) 750 mL $173.55

TASTING NOTE: Bold flavors of plum, licorice and sweet spices highlight this no-holds-barred Pinot Noir. It shows the excesses of the vintage - burly tannins and some heat on the finish - but also loads of character. It just needs some time to knit. Best from 2008 through 2022. 35 cases made. Score - 93. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Nov. 30, 2005)


LABOURÉ-ROI CLOS DE LA ROCHE 2003 Grand Cru

45757 (XD) 750 mL $118

Clos de la Roche's name lets you know what kind of soil it possesses: 'roche' means rock and the vineyard is situated on the limestone typical of Burgundy. The rocky soil is very difficult to cultivate anything but grapes, and the notoriously difficult Pinot Noir absolutely thrives here. Known as the biggest and best Grand Cru in Morey-Saint-Denis, the vineyard produces wines celebrated for their richness, full body, elegance, intensity, and longevity.


LABOURÉ-ROI CLOS DE VOUGEOT 2003 Grand Cru

45740 (XD) 750 mL $118

TASTING NOTE: Unevolved, this has density of both fruit and tannins, plus a freshness that bodes well for the future. Black cherry, blackberry and mineral flavors abound and it's silky, ending with a long aftertaste of blackberry. Best from 2009 through 2025. 50 cases made. Score - 93. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, May 31, 2006)


REMOISSENET GRANDS-ÉCHEZEAUX 2002 Grand Cru

36087 (XD) 750 mL $98.20

Grands-Échézeaux, about 9 ha in size, is located in the commune of Flagey-Echezeaux. It has been called 'one of the most reliable, rewarding grand crus in Burgundy' by wine critic Matt Kramer. The wines are concentrated, elegant and multi-layered, revealing a rich variety of flavours on the palate.


REMOISSENET RICHEBOURG 2002 Grand Cru

36103 (XD) 750 mL $137.85

Richebourg and Remoissenet are top-of-the-line vineyard and producer names in Burgundy. The great grand cru vineyard of Richebourg is celebrated for its rich, vibrant, spicy and flavourful premium wines. Remoissenet is a producer avidly sought by collectors. Fairly tannic in their youth, these wines benefit from at least ten years of ageing. But they're definitely worth the wait.


DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES NUITS-ST-GEORGES CLOS DES PORRETS ST-GEORGES 2001 1^er Cru

693747 (XD) 750 mL $79.35

TASTING NOTE: There is already the barest hint of secondary aromas blending in with the earthy, rich and nicely complex earthy pinot fruit that gives way to bright and sweet, firmly structured flavors that explode on the finish. This will require patience. Score - 89. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Jan. 2005)


LABOURÉ-ROI ÉCHÉZEAUX 2000 Grand Cru

45765 (XD) 750 mL $118

Run since 1974 by former silk merchant Armand Cottin (joined by his brother Louis ten years later), négociant Labouré-Roi is now the world's third largest supplier of Burgundian wines. The Cottins combine innovation and tradition in their approach: the latest state-of-the-art equipment and a wine cellar over 300 years old. Ninety-three acres in size, located beside Vosne-Romanée, the Échézeaux appellation is known for wines that are silky in texture and age-worthy. Cellar this wine another 4-5 years or try it with herb-roasted stuffed chicken or soft cheeses such as brie.


REMOISSENET VOSNE-ROMANÉE LES CHAUMES 1985 1^er Cru

36129 (XD) 750 mL $127.95

Remoissenet Pere et Fils is one of Beaune's wealthiest domaines, with a 14th century property within the walls of the town and 2.5ha which includes Beaune Premier Cru, Maconnais, Bressandes and Beaune Greves. It also produces an entire range as negociant. From its own holdings and around the same amount of bought-in grapes, Remoissenet produces about 200,000 bottles a year. (Adam Lechmere, Decanter, June 14, 2005) The company is known for specializing in older vintage wines.


France Red Wines - November 2007
Burgundy - Côte de Beaune
BOUCHARD pÈre et fils LE CORTON 2005 Grand Cru

973834 (XD) 750 mL $118

TASTING NOTE: A brooding nose with almost no discernable wood influence of very ripe and moderately earthy aromas where the earth continues onto the rich, ripe and impressively dense flavors that also are textured and palate drenching supported by buried yet relatively fine tannins that are rendered almost completely invisible by the superb level of dry extract. This is a big bad boy fashioned in classic old school Corton style with huge aging potential. Score - (93-95). (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, April 1, 2007)


DOMAINE PARENT CORTON LES RENARDES 2005 Grand Cru

925883 (XD) 750 mL $94.20

The 2005 seems at first simple to describe. It is a rich, full vintage with luscious tannins, which is also fresh and elegant. Easy. But mull a bit longer and one realises that there are many elements that combine in a balanced and harmonious manner to define the style of this vintage. Is this the sign of a great vintage? ... The tannins provide the sensual texture of 2005, be it silk, satin or velvet, airy and flowing or rippling, toned and muscular, this texture is an essential part of fine red Burgundy. (Sarah Marsh, www.sarahmarsh.com, Winter 2006/2007)


FAIVELEY CLOS DES CORTON 2004 Grand Cru

722249 (XD) 750 mL $108.10

Allen Meadows of Burghound gave a barrel sample of this wine a score of 90-92. TASTING NOTE: Pure and focused, with a firm spine of tannins. Cherry and mineral flavors are locked in. This will take some time to integrate and show its true potential. Fine length. Best from 2009 through 2018. Score - 91. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, May 31, 2007)


France White Wines - November 2007
Burgundy - Chablis
SIMONNET-FEBVRE CHABLIS LES CLOS 2005 Grand Cru

46599 (XD) 750 mL $69.45

TASTING NOTE: 100% in 2-3 year old oak. This is quite a lot bigger, headier and richer on the palate [than their other offerings]. The fruit is certainly compact and although the wood does seem to dominate now, the fruit comes back on the finish. Glossy and more substantial, but not so elegant [as some of their other wines]. Fine. From 2009/10. (Sarah Marsh, www.sarahmarsh.com, July/Aug. 2006)


DOMAINE LAROCHE LES BLANCHOTS RÉSERVE DE L' OBEDIENCE CHABLIS 2002 Grand Cru

40477 (XD) 750 mL $138.85

TASTING NOTE: Less oaky than it usually is but compared to the prior wines, here the oak completely dominates the fruit with vanilla, wood spice and toast. The big, robust, sappy and very ripe flavors have an interesting tactile sensation to them and this comes across as succulent yet chewy with huge length. Stylistically different from the prior wines and the oak seems almost deliberately dialed up because even though there is terrific underlying material, it's still more than it can gracefully support; very much Côte d'Or in style and as such, I doubt this will please those who are searching for classically styled Chablis. Drink: 2007+. Score - 89. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Oct. 1, 2004)


DOMAINE LAROCHE LES BLANCHOTS RESERVE DE L'OBEDIENCE CHABLIS 2000 Grand Cru

40451 (XD) 750 mL $138.85

TASTING NOTE: Gorgeous. Spicy and lush, with loads of pear, toast and mineral flavors to boot, all on an airy texture, supported by vibrant acidity. It's flashy, but with time the mineral and pear flavors should emerge. Best from 2004 through 2008. Score - 91. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Dec. 31, 2002)


France White Wines - November 2007
Burgundy - Cote D'Or
MARC COLIN CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET LES VIDES-BOURSES 2005 1^er Cru

23316 (D) 750 mL $95

TASTING NOTE: A moderately if not aggressively toasty nose serves as a backdrop for the ripe, expressive and complex aromas of peach, pear and rosemary oil that complements well the nicely powerful medium to full-bodied flavors that are not especially elegant but pack a real punch on the intense and mouth coating finish blessed with ample dry extract that confers an almost chewy quality to the backend. They don't call this a "mini-Bâtard" for no reason! Drink: 2010+. Score - 91. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 1, 2007)


BOUCHARD PÈre et fils CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET 2004 Grand Cru

14969 (D) 750 mL $266.75

TASTING NOTE: As it almost always is, this is notably more elegant aromatically with its airy white flower, spice and limestone aromas that precede textured, pure and defined flavors that possess an utterly different texture and mouth feel, all wrapped in a brilliantly focused and mouth coating finish. Score - 92-95. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 1, 2006)


BOUCHARD PÈre et fils CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 2004 Grand Cru

974758 (XD) 750 mL $137.85

TASTING NOTE: Green apple, white pear and hint of crushed herb are framed by gentle notes of pain grillé that combine with huge and unbelievably intense flavors blessed with phenomenal power and length. This has that "wow" factor as the flavors are both palate staining and almost painfully intense and the finale is like a block of stone. Score - 93-95. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 1, 2006)


HENRI BOILLOT MEURSAULT LE PORUZOTS 2004 1^er Cru

626846 (XD) 750 mL $108.10

TASTING NOTE: Subtle pain grillé notes set off the slightly reduced but unusually elegant green fruit nose though the big and sleekly muscled flavors are much more typical, particularly on the driving finish that drenches the palate in dry extract, which imparts an almost chewy quality. This is a really lovely effort and one that should age well. Decant. Drink: 2012+. Score - 91. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 2007)


JEAN-MARC PILLOT CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET LES CAILLERETS 2004 1^er Cru

25916 750 mL $94.20

TASTING NOTE: Perfumed, minerally aromas of cold wet stone, flint, white truffle and gentian. Dense, bracing and penetrating, with very pure flavors of lemon, flowers and stone. Conveys a strong impression of soil character, but the wine's elements still need a good four or five years to harmonize. Finishes very long and stony. Offers impressive potential, and will likely merit a higher score with bottle aging. Score - 91(+?). (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, Sept./Oct. 2006)


MARC COLIN CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET LES CHAMPS GAIN 2004 1^er Cru

25866 (D) 750 mL $94.20

TASTING NOTE: A slightly brighter and fresher nose featuring green fruit, spice and acacia blossom aromas precedes detailed, minerally and punch middle weight flavors that deliver good richness and excellent persistence on the powerful and focused finish. This is a really lovely effort and I particularly like the vibrancy here. Score - 91. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 1, 2006)


DEUX MONTILLE PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LA GARENNE 2003 1^er Cru

23713 (XD) 750 mL $94.20

The hot 2003 vintage made for rich, earlier drinking whites in Burgundy. TASTING NOTE: Broad and sweet. Scented. Flattering. Forward. Drink 2006-2011. Score - 17. (Jancis Robinson M.W., www.jancisrobinson.com, Jan. 28, 2005)


JEAN-CLAUDE BOISSET BÂTARD-MONTRACHET 2002 Grand Cru

47050 (XD) 750 mL $267.75

The retooling of an image cannot have been accomplished any more abruptly or dramatically than that done by Jean-Claude Boisset ... the father of Jean-Charles and Nathalie, who are two of the principals behind the change in attitude. They constantly speak of the renewal of Jean-Claude Boisset and date it to 2002. "It was a lot to move from being a négoce to being a vinifier. But at the same time, it wasn't too great a stretch because of the focus on quality we've had," notes Nathalie Bergès-Boisset, who directs public relations for the house. Or, as more succinctly put by Jean-Claude Boisset's winemaker, the dynamic Grégory Patriat, "Listen, 2002 is the first vintage of the renewal. Forget the past. When Jean-Charles spoke to me [about our new direction] he gave me carte blanche to raise the quality ... I can't think of any other big brand in Burgundy that has tried to raise the level this way ... " ... Jean-Claude Boisset is producing an enviable range of wines, including grands crus such as Bâtard-Montrachet ... but it's being done in a decidedly different way ...(Todd M. Wernstrom, The Wine News, April 17, 2006)


DOMAINE HUBERT DE MONTILLE PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LES CAILLERETS 2001 1^er Cru

23671 (XD) 750 mL $137.85

TASTING NOTE: Wonderfully expressive with rich, open, elegant grapefruit and peach aromas that already display some mature fruit notes are followed by full-bodied, intense, pure flavors underpinned by an intense minerality and fine finishing inten- sity. There is good depth of extract and solid power and the only nit is that this does not appear, at least not at present, to have the superb fruit/acid balance of the 2002. A very pretty wine built for the medium term though it will be approachable early, at least by the standards of this wine. Drink: 2005+. Score - 90. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 2004)


DOMAINE FONTAINE-GAGNARD CRIOTS-BÂTARD-MONTRACHET 2000 Grand Cru

581801 (XD) 750 mL $177.50

TASTING NOTE: Aromatically distinctive relative to the prior wines as this is very floral in character and not as ripe though it is extremely rich, full, indeed even opulent with amazing intensity, complexity and outstanding persistence on the long, penetrating backend. This is quite focused and while not nearly as big as the Bâtard or Montrachet, this is clearly a cut above the 1ers as it is more powerful and certainly more multifaceted. Drink: 2007-12. Score - 91. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 2002)


REMOISSENET CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE DIAMOND JUBILEE 2000 Grand Cru

36160 (XD) 750 mL $104.15

New York financier and Burgundy collector Edward Millstein purchased (with Louis Jadot as a smaller shareholder) Remoissenet in 2005, bringing in Jadot's former co-director Bernard Repolt (known, according to Margaret Swaine, as the Bad Boy of Beaune) as managing director. The domaine, one of the wealthiest in Beaune and respected for holding its stocks of wines until they are at optimum drinkability, has 2.5 ha of vineyards and also produces as a negociant. Located in the sunniest spot on the hill of Corton, this vineyard produces powerful, multi-flavoured and long-finishing whites.


France Red Wines - November 2007
Rhône – Northern Rhône
ALAIN VOGE CORNAS VIEILLES VIGNES 2004

8177 (XD) 750 mL $63.50

TASTING NOTE: Really zesty, with lots of red currant and bramble notes bouncing ahead of dark olive and sage flavors. The structure is briary on the finish, with an encore of red fruit and mouthwatering acidity. Drink now through 2017. Score - 93. (James Molesworth, www.winespectator.com, Aug. 31, 2007)


France Red Wines - November 2007
Rhône – Southern Rhône
BOISRENARD CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2004

964585 (XD) 750 mL $71.40

TASTING NOTE: The 2004 Boisrenard, their luxury cuvee, always shows some evidence of new oak barrique but doesn't lose its Chateauneuf du Pape soul. In most vintages it is a very long-lived wine, as the 1990 is just now hitting its stride. This is the more up-front style in 2004 with plenty of sexy, chocolatey pain grille notes interwoven with blackberry and cassis. It is layered, opulent, fleshy, and already very drinkable. Its medium to full body and lushness suggest drinking it over the next 8-10 years. Score - 90. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Feb. 2007)


France White Wines - November 2007
Rhône – Southern Rhône
M. CHAPOUTIER ERMITAGE DE L'ORÉE 2003

702076 (XD) 750 mL $142.80

TASTING NOTE: Nearly perfect, one of the most prodigious dry white wines I have ever tasted is the 2003 Ermitage Cuvee de l'Oree. A 669-case cuvee fashioned from yields of 10 hectoliters per hectare, it offers aromas and flavors beyond anything I have previously tasted in a dry white. It tastes like a liqueur of licorice intermixed with a liqueur of honeysuckle, quince, and rocks. Opulent, viscous, and full-bodied, at first glance it is seemingly fragile and over the top, but it boasts extraordinary freshness and liveliness as well as monster concentration and a finish that lasts over 60 seconds. I suspect it will drink beautifully for 3-4 years, then go into a funky stage, and re-emerge two decades later. It may be a 100-year wine ... but who knows? Without question, it is a tour de force in winemaking. Drink 2004-2054. Score - 99. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Feb. 2006)


France - Champagne - November 2007
Champagne
CHAMPAGNE SALON LE MESNIL 1996

704296 (D) 750 mL $326.25

TASTING NOTE: Wouldn't it be lovely if we could drink Salon Le Mesnil every day? This is an incredibly beautiful, sophisticated, lavishly appointed bubbly with an exquisite blend of aged yeast notes smelling of lightly toasted brioche layered atop scents of vanilla, Meyer lemon, chalk and minerals all in the most seamless and creamy of fashions. Its mousse is smooth but energetic and comes with appropriately pinpoint-sized bubbles. Sporting all the finesse that Blanc de Blancs can manage yet rewardingly deep and rich in flavor, this wine is easily the most impressive bottling in this go-round of world-class bubblies. Score - 97. (Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wines, Dec. 2006)


France Red Wines - November 2007
Loire
PASCAL JOLIVET SANCERRE LA GRANDE CUVÉE 2003

947770 (XD) 750 mL $54.55

Produced from over-50-year-old vines on a plot of land called la Prunellière in the village of Bué, Jolivet prefers to let nature takes its course with their wines. Hand-picked, hand-sorted and de-stemmed, the grapes are then fermented with wild yeasts in stainless steel tanks with thermoregulation. The acid-softening malolactic fermentation occurs in barrels over a 15 month period and the wines are not filtered before bottling. Light, ripe, concentrated and fruity, this is a Pinot Parade!


France White Wines - November 2007
Loire
CLOS DE NOUYS CUVÉE DES GRAINS DORÉS VOUVRAY 2003

46854 (S) 500 mL $62.50

TASTING NOTE: Rich, with succulent layers of ripe peach, honey, apricot and ginger that glide to a sweet, creamy finish. Alluring spice, graham and truffle hints skitter in the background. Drink now through 2011. Score - 92. (James Molesworth, www.winespectator.com, Nov. 30, 2006)