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THE CLASSICS COLLECTION

SEPTEMBER 2017

13 VINTAGES

LUIS PATO VINHA BARRIO 2001

Vinho Regional Beiras

TaSTING NOTE:

The 2001 Vinha Barrio

is a single vineyard Baga from chalky-clay

soil, aged in used French oak for 12 months.

This is a vintage, Pato told me, that he

compares to the 2011– years with fine

acidity that support aging very well. This

sure proves that and it seems remarkable.

Silky in texture and certainly showing

a lot of mature, tertiary nuances, this is

nonetheless vibrant and very concentrated.

For all of the acidity and power, it is also

quite balanced, its fine mid-palate soaking

up both. It never seems austere or an

effort to drink – at least not now, with some

15 years on it. What also comes with age,

of course, is complexity. as this grips the

mouth and takes over the palate, it also

throws off that medley of aged-wine flavors,

some forest floor, a touch ofweeds. It is

fascinating as well as mouth-coating.

It isn’t dead or dying, though. It improves

with air and keeps getting better, eventually

seeming a bit younger. (Older wines do

need some waking up sometimes.) It is very

impressive. I would add a caveat: this

had a cork that crumbled at the top. as

a librarywine, there wasn’t another to taste.

But considering how brilliant it is even

now, there doesn’t seem to bemuch of a

problem. If it is –may be! – a little further

along than some other bottles (noting that

the Moinho 2001, also reviewed, seemed

even a bit fresher), there’s nothing much

wrong here. So the note is published, but

that’s the reason for the question mark

after the score, hinting at the theoretical

possibility that other bottles might be

even better. as time goes on, that old

saying comes to mind: it’s often more

about the particular bottle than thewine.

DrinkDate: 2015-2031. Score:

95

(Mark

Squires,

robertparker.com

, Dec. 30, 2015)

499897 (XD) 750 mL $56.00

SPAIN

RED WINE

RIOJA SIERRA DE LA DEMANDA 2013

DOCa Rioja

(Compañia de Vinos del Atlántico)

TaSTING NOTE:

a very enticing nose

showing freshness and intensity. Fresh

strawberries, dried flowers and aromatic

herbs along with mint and white-pepper

undertones. a fresh, medium body, ripe

and juicy tannins and a long, sweet and

floral finish. Delicious. 75% garnacha.

Drink now or hold. Score:

95

(James Suck-

ling,

jamessuckling.com

, Dec. 1, 2016)

517110 (XD) 750 mL $48.00

VIÑA PEDROSAGRAN RESERVA 2010

DO Ribera del Duero

(Hermanos Pérez Pascuas)

TaSTING NOTE:

The 2010 Viña Pedrosa

Gran Reserva contains 10% Cabernet

Sauvignon which aged in barrels for two

years, with a very classical profile of

spices, toast, ripe fruit (red and black),

some earthy hints of minerality and a nice,

austere profile. This is a serious wine;

the Pedrosas are never voluptuous but

show restraint, balance and harmony, and

the palate is always silky with very fine

tannins, good acidity and never showing

any overripeness. This is a textbook Gran

Reserva to age for years. Drink Date:

2015-2025. Score:

94

(Luis Gutierrez,

robertparker.com

, Oct. 29, 2015)

516039 (XD) 750 mL $100.00

HERMANOS PECIÑA SEÑORÍO DE P.

PECIÑA GRAN RESERVA 2009

DOCa Rioja

TaSTING NOTE:

There is one more

exceptional red with an extended aging

in barrel that was only produced in 1998,

2001 and 2003, and now in this 2009

Señorío de P. Peciña Gran Reserva. It is

the usual Tempranillo with 3% Garnacha

and 2% Graciano, but in this case from

50-year-old vines from their Finca Iscorta

vineyard in the Sonsierra zone. The wine

is aged in well-seasoned american oak

barrels for four years with manual and

gravity racking twice per year. If the nose

could somehow remind you of the 2009

Reserva, this is more open and aromatic,

more nuanced, and the palate also shows

a level of complexity and refinement

that makes it much more enjoyable, with

polished tannins and great length. While

it’s not a wimp, it doesn’t overload your

senses. a great and classical Gran Reserva.

Drink Date: 2016-2024. Score:

94

(Luis Gutierrez,

robertparker.com

, aug. 30,

2016)

82164 (XD) 750 mL $52.00