| Amarone | Ripasso | Other Appassimento Wines |
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| At 3000 years old, the ancient appassimento winemaking method is the epitome of tried and true. This technique of drying fully ripe grapes on mats or slated crates, for a considerable period of time before fermentation, reaches its apotheosis in the great Italian wines, Amarone and Ripasso. This method helps accentuate the sugars, energize the acids and integrate the tannins resulting in deeper coloured and fuller-flavoured wines. Join VINTAGES as we take you on a journey through the world of Amarone and Ripasso, as well as other wines that use this immensely popular old-school technique. |
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UNDERSTANDING AMARONE
It’s fairly simple. Each producer determines
the drying time of their grapes.
Ideally, the grapes should raisinate in a
temperature- and humidity-controlled
environment to prevent rot. The dehydrated
grapes are pressed and fermented dry.
Since over 50% of each grape’s liquid
(mostly water) is lost to the dehydration
process, the flavours of the final wine
are intensely concentrated and the alcohol
level is anywhere from 2-5% higher
than a typical table wine. The secret of
this wine’s resurgence is directly related
to the popularity of intense, fruit-forward
New World wines. Amarones share
some of the flavour profile of California
Zinfandel or Australian Shiraz, but
with a more refined balance between
the complex aromas and flavours.
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BERTANI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA VALPANTENA 2004
DOC, Villa Arvdedi
TASTING NOTE: The Valpantena Valley produces hearty, structured wines that are usually priced more competitively than those from the Classico zone. Bertani's Villa Arvedi is a case in point. It delivers all the qualities you look for in excellent Amarone: intensity and diversity of aromas such as almond paste, currant berry, Indian spice and deep oak tones. It has polished tannins and a playful note of sour cherry on the finish. Score - 90. (Monica Larner, Wine Enthusiast, Oct. 1, 2007)
13417 (D) 750 mL $56.95  |
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New at VINTAGES
GAMBA GNIREGA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO LE QUARE 2004
DOC
Gamba Gnirega uses Corvina 50%, Corvinone 30%, Rondinella 10%, Molinara 5% and Croatina 5% in its blend. They hand pick all the grapes and then dry them on wooden racks for a minimum of four months prior to pressing. They do a very slow 40-50 day fermentation to extract as much flavour and colour as possible before ageing the wines 6 months in stainless steel and then two years in 15 hectare barrels. This rich, robust, complex wine is a great match for mature hard cheeses.
85340 (D) 750 mL $50.95
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New at VINTAGES
RONCOLATO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2005
DOC
TASTING NOTE: Medium ruby colour with aromas of dark chocolate, raisins, fig, licorice and old leather. This dry, intense wine is round and full-bodied with a good core of acid to bring structure and balance to the wine. Full-bodied and long finishing. An excellent match for roast venison or grilled leg of lamb with an Amarone glaze. (VINTAGES panel, Aug. 2008)
81778 (D) 750 mL $43.95 |
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New at VINTAGES
TEZZA CORTE MAJOLI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2003
DOC
TASTING NOTE: Medium garnet/ruby colour with intense aromas of dried fruits, cocoa, leather and fig. Dry, full-bodied, supple and quite rich. Wonderful balance between the fruit, acids and tannins. Ready to drink tonight with strong cheeses or cellar this long-finishing wine for 2-4 years. (VINTAGES panel, Aug. 2008)
81943 (D) 750 mL $38.95 |
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TOMMASI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2004
DOC
This rich Amarone gushes with ripe cherry and plum fruit with notes of vanilla oak and toast. Dry and round with ripe tannins, this mouthfilling wine would pair well with grilled lamb or stuffed pasta dishes.
356220 (D) 750 mL $52.95
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ZENATO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2004
DOC
TASTING NOTE: Displays crushed currant and grilled meat character. Full- to medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a tight, tasty mineral finish. Big and juicy, with lots of jammy fruit. Best after 2008. Score - 89. (Jo Cooke, www.winespectator.com, May 15, 2008)
413179 (D) 750 mL $52.95 |
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UNDERSTANDING RIPASSO
Originally created by Masi Winery in 1964, Ripasso means literally ‘repassed’. This popular technique adds extra flavour to Valpolicella wines. Originally, Masi took skins from the just-pressed grapes used in Amarone production and added them to the already-made Valpolicella wines. The sugar from these skins kick-started a second fermentation thereby intensifying the colour and flavour compounds. Masi refined the method in the 1990s; by taking fully ripe grapes, drying them for about four weeks (a shorter period than what’s required for Amarone) and then adding them to the Valpolicella, Masi created a similar and, some say, finer wine. Ripassos are hugely popular because they feature the vibrancy of Valpolicella, the body and flavour of Amarone and the ability to match an even vaster array of foods.
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BOLLA LE POIANE VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE RIPASSO 2005
DOC
Bolla uses the original Ripasso method to make their 'Le Poiane'. The juice is pumped onto the skins of grapes left over from their Amarone wine production and allowed to macerate for 20 days. The wine is then aged for one to two years in small oak barrels prior to bottling. Deeper in colour, bolder in flavour and higher in alcohol than most Valpolicellas, this wine matches a wider range of cuisine including steak, lamb or rich pasta sauces.
135293 (D) 750 mL $19.95
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STEFANO ACCORDINI VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE ACINATICO RIPASSO 2005
DOC
TASTING NOTE: A fruity red, with ripe berry character and a fresh earth underlay. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and medium finish of mineral, leaving a rich chocolaty aftertaste. Drink now. Score - 88. (Jo Cooke, www.winespectator.com, May 15, 2008)
85159 (D) 750 mL $28.95  |
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TEDESCHI CAPITEL DEI NICALO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2006
DOC, Appassimento Breve
This wine is made using the Ripasso method, although it does not indicate this on the label. Tedeschi uses the recent variation on the process. They pick fully ripe grapes then allowed them to dry on mats for about one month prior to pressing. The resutling wine is much more flavourful and richer than the standard Valpolicella. This is meat tortellini's best friend.
984997 (D) 750 mL $18.95
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New at VINTAGES
TEZZA CORTE MAJOLI VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2003
DOC
Vanio Tezza represents a new generation of Veneto winemakers. While still in his 20s, he took over the running of the estate 10 years ago after the death of his father. Respecting the traditions required to make Ripasso wines, he also brings modern flair to every wine the property produces. Check out the ripe plum, raspberry and cocoa aromas in this medium full-bodied, round, rich and fruity wine. Enjoy with braised beef dishes.
84061 (XD) 750 mL $19.95 |
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New at VINTAGES
TEZZA MA ROAT VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO 2005
DOC
Ma Roat, which means Red Moon in the local dialect, is one of Veneto's best kept secrets. Bloggers and wine critics were, well, over the moon, about the 2004 vintage, kiddingly accusing Tezza of 'holding back the good stuff' from the public until now. This ripe and round wine is made to be matched with a fresh wild mushroom ravioli or gnocchi and mushrooms in a butter sauce.
84053 (D) 750 mL $17.95
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New at VINTAGES
ZONIN VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE RIPASSO 2006
DOC
TASTING NOTE: Deep ruby red colour with a wide array of aromas, including cherry, plum, fig, chocolate and spice. Dry with a sweet, ripe fruit centre. Soft and round and deeply delicious. A good match for a rich, braised meat dish or meat-based pastas. (VINTAGES panel, March 2008)
84798 (D) 750 mL $19.95 |
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OTHER
APPASSIMENTO
WINES
Other wines made in the appassimento
method are popular choices throughout
Italy. Recioto della Valpolicella is the
sweet interpretation of Amarone. Vin Santo
is made all over Italy and is created
like Amarone except that the barrels are
completely sealed and left in the warm
part of a winery to age for up to 10 years;
since Mother Nature does most of the
work, the resulting wines are usually
sweet, but they can also come out quite
dry. Other regions, such as the Valtellina
DOC in Lombardy, produce wines that
are akin to Amarone. The wine known
as Sforzato or Sfurzat is considered
Valtellina’s most prestigious; this wine
must naturally achieve a minimum
alcohol of 14.5%, a level it easily attains
and often exceeds, creating an intense
and flavourful wine.
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New at VINTAGES
CAMPAGNOLA RECIOTTO DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2006
DOCG, Casotto del Merlo, Piedmont
"Giueseppe Campagnola never misses the mark. The leading wines in his substantial range are always among the best to be found in Valpolicella." (Gambero Rosso Italian Wine, 2008) This delicous, medium sweet dessert wine features dried fig, raisin, chocolate and vanilla bean aromas and flavours. Serve with rich desserts or high-cacao content dark chocolate.
84079 (MS) 500 mL $33.95
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New at VINTAGES
NINO NEGRI SFURSAT VALTELLINA 2004
DOCG, Lombardy
Made with 100% Chiavennasca, the local name for Nebbiolo. The grapes are dried for three months before pressing and maceration.
TASTING NOTE: At Nino Negri, the traditional Sfursat '04 [is] the grandfather of Sfursatos ... Admittedly, the difference was extremely small but we must say that the '04 bowled us over to sweep up a Three Glass award. Its sober elegance and broad complex nose usher in an exceptionally balanced palate and a deep, refreshing, well-sustained finish. Score -  (out of 3). Gambero Rosso Italian Wines, 2008)
84848 (D) 750 mL $34.95
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New at VINTAGES
RUFFINO SERELLE VIN SANTO DEL CHIANTI 2004
DOC, Tuscany
Vin Santo is Tuscany's signature dessert wine and this offering from Ruffino is a splendid example. It's a blend of the local Malvasia del Chianti and Trebbiano Toscano varieties that were allowed to dry for several weeks before being carefully selected for the wine. Featuring notes of dried apricot, raisin, honey and spice, it makes a terrific match for almond or hazelnut biscotti.
1008 (MS) 375 mL $19.95
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