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 major grape varieties |  major wine regions
As the weather heats up, the refreshing and versatile wines of Germany spring to mind. These classic white wines are incredibly expressive with aromas and flavours that are brightly intense. Limes, peaches, apples, bouquets of flowers, spices and stony mineral characteristics are on parade but the wines remain lithe, refreshing and focused. Sometimes hinting at sweetness, they are exquisitely balanced by a thrill ride of racy acidity that plays out on a lingering finish. VINTAGES invites you to discover the best kept secret that every good sommelier knows: the incredibly food-friendly and vivacious wines of Germany.

 

a river runs through it

Germany’s rivers are the single-most influential element of geography in its wine regions. The Mosel, Rhine and Nahe for example each carved their respective valleys, creating the slopes that provide the vines plenty of exposure to sunlight. These rivers also act as mirrors, reflecting the light and warmth of the sun back on the vines, doubling their exposure and allowing the grapes to ripen fully despite the cooler climate. The rivers are also responsible for the varied soil types found here, from the Mosel’s famous slate soils to the red clay soils found in the Rheinhessen, the rivers have shifted and deposited a tapestry of terroir for wine lovers to explore.

  major grape varieties

white wines

Riesling – Germany’s most noble variety, it produces elegant and expressive wines known for their versatility with food, racy freshness and long life.

Müller-Thurgau – Germany’s second most planted variety produces wines that are light and flowery with a hint of perfume. Deliciously refreshing with light seafood dishes.

Silvaner – The traditional variety of the Franken region, it makes full-bodied wines with subtle fruit flavours, not unlike Pinot Blanc.

red wines

Pinot Noir (called Spätburgunder) – Pinot Noir thrives in the warmer regions of Germany like Baden where it makes light-to medium-bodied reds with a crisp fruity character.

Dornfelder – This early ripening grape makes full-bodied, complex and robust reds that are suitable for heartier meals.

Baden

WINZERGENOSSENSCHAFT OBERBERGEN MÜLLER-THURGAU TROCKEN  2006
QbA Baden, Obergergener Bassgeige, Kaiserstuhl  

Made with grapes sourced from Baden's Kaiserstuhl, an area considered the warmest in Germany, this shows Müller-Thurgau at its best. Created by Herman Müller in 1882, Müller-Thurgau is a cross between Riesling and Madeleine Royale, a table grape. When firing on all cylinders, as is this example, its aroma profile suggests gorgeous light peach, pear and sweet apple. Round and ripe, this white is a good sipper, or match it to a grilled salmon dish.

071688    (MD)            750 mL    $14.95   
  
Franken
GRAF V. SCHÖNBORN SILVANER KABINETT TROCKEN  2006
QmP, Hallburger Schlossberg, Estate Btld.  

This wine's distinctive bottle shape (called bocksbeutel), will tell you have entered the German wine region of Franken. The next clue is the grape used: Silvaner. Where in other parts of Germany, this grape creates wines that are good, in Franken it approaches greatness. Terrific as aperitif wines, this one will also nicely complement a variety of lighter seafood or fish dishes.

070953    (D)            750 mL    $19.95   
 
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

KARL ERBES RIESLING SPÅTLESE  2005
QmP, Ürziger Würzgarten, Estate Btld.  

TASTING NOTE: Peach drops, mineral and lime aromas are front and centre. A nicely plump, medium in sweetness wine with acid bringing balance on the mid-palate. This medium-bodied, medium long-finishing wine is an excellent choice for fiery Indian curries. (VINTAGES panel, March 2008) 

049866    (M)            750 mL    $19.95   

 

REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT RIESLING KABINETT  1998
QmP, Kaseler Nies'chen, Estate Btld.  

TASTING NOTE: Our panel had one universal wow! Filled with aromas of peach crême, honey, petrol, cardamon and key lime pie, this medium dry wine is still extremely youthful with the fruit still very present and the acid supplying excellent balance. Medium full-bodied with a very long fruit/ spice-driven finish, this wine will easily reward another decade in a good cellar, or enjoy it tonight with grilled rosemary/dill salmon steaks. (VINTAGES panel, March 2008) 

940809    (M)            750 mL    $20.00   

  major wine regions

 

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer – The valleys of the Mosel river and its tributaries have some of the steepest sloped vineyards in the world and are known for producing distinctive and highly sought-after, almost ethereal Rieslings. Rheingau – This beautiful region is rich in winemaking tradition and is the birthplace for Germany’s Pradikat classifications. Its aristocratic Rieslings are typically elegant with a refined and sometimes spicy fragrance; rich fruity flavor and pronounced acidity.

Rheinhessen – Germany’s largest region is a valley of gentle rolling hills bordered by the Rhine and Nahe rivers. Its wines are typically soft, fragrant, and medium-bodied with mild acidity. They range from pleasant and easy-to-drink to complex, deep and elegant.

Pfalz – This pretty region south of Rheinhessen is second only to the Mosel in vineyard area planted with Riesling. Here, Rieslings are richer in body but still possess finesse. Full-bodied and aromatic whites are also made with Müller-Thurgau and Silvaner.

Baden – Germany’s southernmost and warmest wine region is nestled between the hills of the Black Forest and the Rhine River. Nearly half of its sunny vineyards are dedicated to growing the three Pinot varieties of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.

Franken – Located East of Frankfurt in Bavaria, this region is famous for its fuller-bodied, somewhat masculine wines. Silvaner is the star grape variety here. The finest Franconia wines are easy to spot as they are bottled in a Bocksbeutel; a distinctive round and squat bottle.

Nahe – One of Germany’s smallest wine regions, Nahe nevertheless has an extraordinary range of soil types that allow it to produce a variety of styles of wines including notably spicy Rieslings, floral Müller-Thurgaus and earthy Silvaners.

 

 
Nahe

KRUGER-RUMPF RIESLING KABINETT  2006
QmP, Münster Pittersberg, Estate Btld.  

TASTING NOTE: Nahe wines are admired for their aromas of fruit, clay, slate and sandstone (indicative of the soils they are grown on). This one has that in spades, plus a lovely collection of scents, including orange marmalade, lime and green apple. Medium dry to medium in sweetness, this wine is ripe, zippy, and delicious. An intriguing match would be sweet-and-sour barbecued backribs. (VINTAGES panel, March 2008) 

692368    (MD)            750 mL    $19.95   

  
Pfalz

DARTING RIESLING KABINETT  2006
QmP, Dürkheimer Michelsberg, Estate Btld.  

TASTING NOTE: A great summer sipper or a good match for gourmet spicy pork sausages, this wine displays aromas of Asian pear, stone fruit, melon and wet stones. Medium in sweetness with a nice core of acidity to bring balance and ageability (3-6 years or more), this has a long, beautifully balanced finish. (VINTAGES panel, March 2008) 

950212    (MD)            750 mL    $15.95   

  

Rheingau

SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERGER RIESLING  2006
QbA Rheingau, Gelback, Estate Btld.  

TASTING NOTE: Classy, aristocractic Riesling with aromas of pear, quince, lime zest and mineral. Off-dry with a nice acid crispness that adds a touch of dryness. Creamy/ nutty tones to add complexity. Light-to medium-bodied with a medium long finish, this polished wine is a great sipper or an excellent choice for grilled white fish. It will also cellar nicely for up to four years. (VINTAGES panel, March 2008) 

070961    (MD)            750 mL    $27.95   

  

SCHLOSS SCHÖNBORN RIESLING KABINETT  2005
QmP, Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg, Estate Btld.  

TASTING NOTE: Pale lemon yellow colour leads to a nose rife with cloved peach, beeswax, buckwheat honey and lemon curd. Medium in sweetness with a rich, creamy mouthfilling texture. It is quite full-bodied with a long, perfectly balanced finish. Perfect for that just-caught mess of freshwater fish. (VINTAGES panel, March 2008) 

928184    (M)            750 mL    $18.95   

  
Rheinhessen

EUGEN WEHRHEIM RIESLING KABINETT  2006
QmP, Niersteiner Bildstock  

TASTING NOTE: Pretty aromas of pear drops, cantelope, apple sauce with cinnamon, candied orange peel dominate this very well-made wine. Medium dry to medium in sweetness, there is a light youthful spritz and an excellent balance between the fruit and acid. This medium-bodied long finishing wine is an excellent choice for grilled prawns with Chinese hot sauce. VINTAGES panel, March 2008) 

071019    (MD)            750 mL    $16.95   

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