Vmail Product List

France - Bordeaux
Red Table Wine
CHÂTEAU D'ARMAILHAC 2000 AC, Pauillac, 5^e Cru 19828 (XD) 750 mL $89 TASTING NOTE: This continues to be one of the most seductive and luscious d'Armailhacs I have ever tasted. It may be my favorite vintage of d'Armailhac. Opaque purple-colored, this blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot has surprisingly good acidity with the high Merlot content and high tannin, but an expressive, opulent mid-texture and loads of charcoal-infused, cedary, black currant fruit intermixed with spice box, dried herbs, and espresso notes. The wine is full-bodied, sweet, and expansive. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2020. Score - 91. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2003)

CHÂTEAU LANGOA-BARTON 2000 AC, St-Julien, 3^e Cru 736041 (XD) 750 mL $89 TASTING NOTE: A dense and rich red, with aromas of blackberries and blueberries, with an undertone of minerals. Full-bodied, with lots of tannins and loads of structure and length. Just a baby, but already muscular and developed. Best wine from this estate in years. Same owner as Léoville Barton. Best after 2010. Score - 94. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2003)

CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-BARTON 2002 AC, St-Julien, 2^e Cru 918508 (XD) 750 mL $75 TASTING NOTE: Even better from bottle than from cask, and one of the finest wines of the vintage, this dense purple-colored 2002 reveals wonderfully sweet notes of charcoal, fresh mushrooms, smoke, earth, leather, cassis, and cedar. Full-bodied, highly extracted, broodingly backward, dense, and deep, this impressively endowed offering is built for the long term. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2028. One of the classic wines of Bordeaux and still realistically priced, Leoville-Barton is becoming increasingly popular because of the extraordinary quality/price ratio it offers. Score - 92. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2005)

CHÂTEAU BEAUSÉJOUR DUFFAU-LAGAROSSE 1998 AC, St-Émilion, 1^er Grand Cru Classé (B) 47183 (XD) 750 mL $135 TASTING NOTE: Slinky. Loads of milk chocolate and berry aromas, with hints of stone and earth. Full-bodied, with superpolished tannins and a long, silky finish. A beauty. Best after 2008. Score - 92. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, Jan. 31, 2001)

CHÂTEAU LAFITE-ROTHSCHILD 1999 AC Pauillac, 1^er Cru 579607 ( XD) 750 mL $360 This wine received a score of 95 points from the Wine Spectator. TASTING NOTE: This prodigious wine is both elegant and intensely flavored, and almost diaphanous in its layers that unfold with no heaviness. An opaque ruby/purple color is accompanied by a complex bouquet of lead pencil, graphite, cedar, creme de cassis, toast, and vanilla. It is medium-bodied, with extravagant layers of richness yet little weight, and a finish that is all sweetness, ripeness, and harmony. This extraordinary Lafite increasingly appears to be a modern day clone of the majestic 1953. A mere one-third of the crop made it into the grand vin! Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030. Score – 95. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com , Apr. 2002)

CHÂTEAU CLOS DE SARPE 2001 AC St-Émilion Grand Cru 579599 (XD) 750 mL $149 TASTING NOTE: This may be the biggest, richest, most intensely concentrated wine of the vintage in St.-Emilion (much like it was in 2000). Sadly, there are only 900 cases of this unfined/unfiltered 85% Merlot / 15% Cabernet Sauvignon blend (made from yields of 23 hectoliters per hectare), most of which comes from 60-80-year old vines. Made in a huge, nectar of the vine-like style, it is incredibly pure and rich, but is very uncompromising. It appears to be a modern day version of a wine made in the 1800s. Enormously concentrated, massive on the palate, with excruciatingly high levels of tannin, but also high levels of extract, it is meant for patient connoisseurs. It will have a fascinating evolution, lasting 30-40 years, but being conservative, I will just say drink it between 2010-2025. In all respects, this admirable effort is a throwback to days long gone. Drink 2010-2025. Score - 95. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2004)

CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU 1996 AC St-Julien, 2^e Cru 924845 (XD) 750 mL $229 TASTING NOTE: I tasted the 1996 Ducru Beaucaillou on four separate occasions from bottle in January. The 1996 is long, with a deep mid-palate. It also reveals tannin in the finish. This wine is remarkable. It is muscular, concentrated, and classic. Bottled in late June, 1998, it exhibits a saturated ruby/purple color, as well as a knock-out nose of minerals, licorice, cassis, and an unmistakable lead pencil smell that I often associate with top vintages of Lafite-Rothschild. It is sweet and full-bodied, yet unbelievably rich with no sense of heaviness or flabbiness. The wine possesses high tannin, but it is extremely ripe, and the sweetness of the black currant, spice-tinged Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is pronounced. This profound, backward Ducru-Beaucaillou is a must purchase. It will be fascinating for readers who own the 1996 to follow the evolution of this exceptional vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2035. Score - 96. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 1999)

CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-POYFERRÉ 1996 AC, St-Julien, 2^e Cru 17863 (XD) 750 mL $149 TASTING NOTE: This fabulous 1996 was tasted three times from bottle, and it is unquestionably the finest wine produced by this estate since their blockbuster 1990. Medium to full-bodied, with a saturated black/purple color, the nose offers notes of cedar, jammy black fruits, smoke, truffles, and subtle new oak. In the mouth, there is impressive fruit extraction, a tannic, full-bodied structure, and a classic display of power and finesse. The longer it sat in the glass, the more impressive the wine became. Backward, and massive in terms of its extract and richness, this should prove to be a sensational Leoville-Poyferre for drinking over the next three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2028. Score - 93. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 1999)

CHÂTEAU MONTROSE 1996 AC St-Estèphe, 2^e Cru 581769 (XD) 750 mL $169 TASTING NOTE: The 1996 Montrose reveals outstanding potential. It boasts a saturated dark ruby/purple color, and aromas of new oak, jammy black currants, smoke, minerals, and new saddle leather. This multi-layered wine is rich and medium to full-bodied, with sweet tannin, a nicely-textured, concentrated mid-palate, and an impressively long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2025. Score - 91. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 1999)

CHÂTEAU PAVIE-DECESSE 2001 AC St-Émilion Grand Cru Classé 938605 (XD) 750 mL $179 TASTING NOTE: This 23-acre vineyard, acquired by Gerard and Chantal Perse in 1997, is situated on the south-facing limestone plateau above Chateau Pavie. This blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc (from vines averaging 41 years of age) was cropped at a meager 30 hectoliters per hectare. After a five week maceration, the wine was aged 18 months in 100% new oak, and bottled unfined and unfiltered (as are all the Perse wines). An inky/ruby/purple color is accompanied by rich aromas of Asian spices, soy, black truffles, licorice, espresso, and intense cherry and blackberry fruit. It displays great intensity, medium to full body, low acidity, and high tannin. This beauty is not far off the pace of the blockbuster 2000. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018. Score - 95. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2004)

CHÂTEAU PICHON-LONGUEVILLE-BARON 1996 AC Pauillac, 2^e Cru 654624 (XD) 750 mL $149 TASTING NOTE: Pichon Longueville Baron's 1996 has turned out to be even better than I thought from cask. The high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend (about 80%) resulted in a wine that has put on weight in the bottle. An opaque purple color is accompanied by beautiful aromas of tobacco, new saddle leather, roasted coffee, and cassis. It is dense, medium to full-bodied, and backward, with moderately high tannin, but plenty of sweet fruit, glycerin, and extract to balance out the wine's structure. This well-endowed, classic Pauillac should be at its finest between 2006-2022. Score - 91. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 1999)

CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-GASSIES 2000 AC Margaux, 2 ^e Cru 581629 (XD) 750 mL $79 TASTING NOTE: The finest wine I have tasted from this estate in over four decades, this dense purple-colored 2000 offers up a sweet perfume of black cherry liqueur intermixed with cassis, graphite, licorice, and incense. Full-bodied and concentrated, with high tannin and loads of extract, this is a serious, broodingly backward, high class offering for patient connoisseurs. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2022. Score - 90. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, April 2003)

France - Burgundy
Red Table Wine
CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR CLOS-VOUGEOT VIEILLES VIGNES 2003 AC Grand Cru 702316 (XD) 750 mL $139 TASTING NOTE: Deep ruby. This is ever-so-slightly fresher with a similarly ripe nose of black cherry liqueur, plum and cassis nuanced by spice and warm earth aromas leading to extraordinarily rich and sappy full-bodied, deep and wonderfully rich, palate staining flavors and huge length on the velvety, sweet and opulent finish. This is a massive wine of simply unbelievable concentration yet it retains a fine sense of balance, which will enable this to live for decades. I wouldn't touch a bottle for 15 years but in 2050, this will still be alive and well. Drink 2018+. Score - 93. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Jan. 1, 2006)

DOMAINE D'ARDHUY CLOS DE VOUGEOT 2004 AC Grand Cru 19943 (XD) 750 mL $139 TASTING NOTE: A discreet and understated nose of pure and bright earthy red fruit aromas combines with supple, precise and beautifully transparent full-bodied flavors that culminate in the classic young Clos de Vougeot austerity. I particularly like the balance here and the explosive and lingering finish. A first rate effort that will also require ample time to be at its best. Drink: 2016+. Score - 90-93. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Jan. 1, 2006)

DOMAINE DE MONTILLE 1^er Cru BEAUNE LES SIZIES 2003 AC 22517 (XD) 750 mL $75 TASTING NOTE: New oak lends an exotic coconut note in this rich, dense red. The tannins are firm and arrive quickly to meet the fruit. In the end, it's on the dry side, needing time to integrate the tannins. Best from 2007 through 2015. Score - 88. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, May 15, 2006)

DOMAINE DE MONTILLE 1^er Cru BEAUNE LES SIZIES 2004 AC 22897 (XD) 750 mL $64 TASTING NOTE: Healthy crimson. Quite deep and mossy nose, then great smoothness of texture. The biz. Very, very correct and this wine convinces. There are uncovered layers here. Open for de Montille. Quite fresh and bright and rich and lively. Quite a dry finish. Drink 2009-15. Score - 17 out of 20. (www.jancisrobinson.com, Jan.12, 2006)

DOMAINE DE MONTILLE BEAUNE 1^er LES PERRIÈRES 2003 AC 22525 (XD) 750 mL $79 TASTING NOTE: A mix of predominantly ripe black fruit aromas combines with rich, full, sweet flavors that offer much better mid-palate density and overall acid/fruit/tannin balance. In particular, I like the lift the minerality provides on the moderately long finish. Drink: 2010+. Score - 87-89. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, April 1, 2005)

DOMAINE DE MONTILLE Volnay 1^er Cru LES BROUILLARDS 2002 AC 22533 (XD) 750 mL $89 TASTING NOTE: Positively gorgeous red fruit aromatics introduce equally high-toned red fruit flavors that are naturally sweet and so fresh that this seems almost like biting down on cool fruit. Like the Carelle, this is not especially dense but the superb detail and persistence make for a truly lovely combination. Drink: 2007+. Score - 89-91. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, April 1, 2004)

DOMAINE DE MONTILLE VOLNAY 1^er Cru LES CHAMPANS 2001 AC 22582 (XD) 750 mL $99 TASTING NOTE: Medium to medium-full colour. Rich and fullish bodied. Much more impressive. This has plenty of depth and succulence and not a hint of hail damage. Very good tannins. Long. Very good indeed for a Volnay this year. From 2007. (Clive Coates, The Vine, April 2003)

DOMAINE DE MONTILLE VOLNAY 1^er Cru LES CHAMPANS 2004 AC 22566 (XD) 750 mL $99 TASTING NOTE: Sweet intense oaky aromas. Rich and rugged, but needs time: its lively acidity and length promise a fine future. Drink 2010-20. Score - **** out of 5. (www.decanter.com)

DOMAINE DE MONTILLE VOLNAY 1^er Cru LES MITANS 2004 AC 22590 (XD) 750 mL $99 TASTING NOTE: Medium red. Deeply pitched aromas of cherry, chocolate and underbrush, with a faint peppery nuance. Fat, thick and sweet, with some superripe suggestions to the flavors of plum, redcurrant, raspberry and spices, but also a lightly herbal quality. Impressively round wine with terrific stuffing. Not hugely vibrant but undeniably fat and round, finishing with lush tannins and a note of underbrush. These degenerating vines produced fruit with 15% potential alcohol. This will give pleasure early. Score - 87-90. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2006)

DOMAINE DE MONTILLE Volnay 1^er Cru LES TAILLEPIEDS 2001 AC 22681 (XD) 750 mL $105 TASTING NOTE: Unlike the prior wines, the nose here is reserved and tight with flavors that offer good if not exceptional depth and excellent complexity plus this may offer the best precision and focus of any wine to this point. This is somewhat edgy but with plenty of volume. A fine effort for the vintage. Drink: 2007-2011. Score - 86-89. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, April 1, 2003)

DOMAINE JACQUES PRIEUR BEAUNE 1^er Cru GRÈVES 2005 AC 46995 (XD) 750 mL $70 TASTING NOTE: Deep ruby-red. Primary aromas of black raspberry, dark cherry, violet and minerals. Suave on entry, then juicy and tight in the middle, with relatively unevolved flavors of black fruits and violet. This one finished its malolactic fermentation later than the Clos de la Feguine and is considerably more backward. Finishes aromatic, firmly tannic and long. Score - 88-91. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2007)

DOMAINE ROBERT ARNOUX ROMANÉE-ST-VIVANT 2004 AC Grand Cru 22459 (XD) 750 mL $499 TASTING NOTE: This displays a similar kaleidoscopic nose to that of the Suchots but with even more spice and hard as it is to believe, even more refinement and the aromas just ooze class. The ultra pure, sweet, precise and beautifully detailed flavors maintain their focus from start to the dazzlingly long and palate staining finish. Despite the expressiveness, there is an underlying reserve here which suggests that even better things are to come with bottle age. One of the wines of the vintage and if you like RSV, don't miss this one. Don’t' miss! Drink: 2014+. Score - 93-96. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, Jan. 1, 2006)

JEAN-CLAUDE BOISSET SANTENAY 1^er Cru BEAUREGARD 2003 AC 47076 (XD) 750 mL $41 The wines of Jean-Claude Boisset have been going through a renaissance since his son, Jean Charles, has taken over. This 2003 premier cru Santenay offers flavours of dark cherry and earth with medium tannins. Though a good choice for mid-term cellaring (3-5 years), it matches beautifully now with duck l'orange.

LOUIS JADOT CLOS VOUGEOT 2004 AC Grand Cru 946160 (XD) 750 mL $119 TASTING NOTE: Good deep red. Bracing aromas show noteworthy verve and purity: kirsch, blackberry, minerals and dark chocolate. Concentrated, dense and powerful but with excellent vinosity. Medicinal black cherry, mineral and chocolate flavors are joined by a leathery note on the firmly tannic finish. From a yield of 36 hectoliters per hectare, which Lardiere describes as a full crop. Score - 90-92. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2006)

White Table Wine
DOMAINE ALAIN GRAS MEURSAULT LES TILLETS BLANC 2001 AC 581819 (XD) 750 mL $45 This elegant wine comes from a long established Burgundy house in the Côte de Beaune, Domaine Alain Gras. Enticing scents of mineral, smoke and pear manifest themselves on the nose. The wine possesses that classic Meursault richness, perfect with some grilled salmon steaks for an elegant, late evening dinner.

DOMAINE DU CHÂTEAU DE PULIGNY-MONTRACHET PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 2002 AC 21741 (XD) 750 mL $65 TASTING NOTE: This is a small but noticeable step up in both elegance and complexity with pretty white fruit and honeysuckle aromas that merge into sweet, precise and admirably pure flavors that are both defined and refined and possess excellent length. This is a wine of understatement and obvious minerality if not necessarily great density. Outstanding! Drink: 2007-12. Score - 88-90. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 1, 2004)

DOMAINE DU CHÂTEAU DE PULIGNY-MONTRACHET PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 2003 AC 21725 (XD) 750 mL $79 TASTING NOTE: Indisputably the most elegant of these five villages wines with beautiful and nicely detailed white flower and green apple aromas that precede the delicious, sweet and notably complex medium full flavors that possess both style and grace, all wrapped in a persistent, mouth coating finish. Drink: 2007+. Score - 86-89. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 1, 2005)

DOMAINE JACQUES PRIEUR PULIGNY-MONTRACHET1er Cru LES COMBETTES 2004 AC 47043 (XD) 750 mL $110 TASTING NOTE: Superripe aromas of sweet apricot, peach, marzipan and nutty oak. Fat, sweet and rich, with ripe stone fruit and grilled nut flavors. Sexy, round and long. Combines the aromas of Puligny with the mouth feel of Meursault. This will give early pleasure. Score - 90. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, Sep./Oct. 2006)

DOMAINE JEAN PILLOT ET FILS CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET LES MACHERELLES 2004 AC, 1^er Cru 25940 (XD) 750 mL $89 TASTING NOTE: Very subtle pain grillé notes frame moderately earthy aromas including notes of hay and herbal tea that combine with rich and naturally smoky flavors that are quite understated for this cru and display ample finishing minerality on the long and intense finish. Better than it usually is. Drink: 2008+. Score - 90. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 1, 2006)

DOMAINE MARC COLIN ET FILS PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1^er Cru LA GARENNE 2003 AC 26039 (D) 750 mL $99 Les Garenne is in Puligny-Montrachet TASTING NOTE: A gorgeous '03, this has intensity and balance without being too heavy or soft. Smoke, vanilla and spice aromas complement the honeysuckle and toasted hazelnut flavors, ending with a persistent butterscotch aftertaste. Drink now through 2012. Score - 91. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com,* Feb. 28, 2006)

DOMAINE MARC COLIN ET FILS PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1^er Cru LE TRÉZIN 2004 AC 25858 (XD) 750 mL $65 TASTING NOTE: Here there is a wonderfully elegant and airy white flower nose that is complex, intense and focused as it seamlessly introduces detailed, precise and mineral-infused flavors that offer really impressive purity of expression and length. The only nit is that it's not particularly complex though it may well develop more depth in bottle and it will definitely need a few to realize its full potential. Outstanding! Top Value. Drink: 2008+. Score - 89. (Allen Meadows, www.burghound.com, July 1, 2006)

France - Rhône
Red Table Wine
CHÂTEAU RAYAS CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PÂPE 2001 AC 603985 (XD) 750 mL $239 Stephen Tanzer of International Wine Cellar gave this wine a score of 91(+?). TASTING NOTE: Traditional style, and lovely, with sous bois character dominating the dried currant, balsa wood and game flavors. Shows young Grenache's brick and tea leaf notes, but the supple texture and harmonious finish put on weight with air, boding well for cellaring. Drink now through 2011. Score - 91. (James Molesworth, www.winespectator.com, June 30, 2004)

M. CHAPOUTIER ERMITAGE L'ERMITE 2003 AC 702050 (XD) 750 mL $199 TASTING NOTE: In terms of pure perfection and singularity, the black/purple-colored 2003 Ermitage l’Ermite is hauntingly perfect. A gorgeous perfume of flowers, black and blue fruits intermixed with a liqueur of rocks soars from the glass of this extraordinary wine. Full-bodied and multilayered, with magnificent concentration, and a stunning freshness and precision that are hard to believe given the frightfully low acidity, this is an extraordinary expression of terroir and vintage character that must be tasted to be believed. While it will be less approachable in its youth than some of its siblings, it will last for 40-50 years. Drink 2006-2056. Score - 100. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Feb. 2006)

France - Alsace
White Table Wine
ZIND-HUMBRECHT PINOT GRIS CLOS JEBSAL 2003 AC Alsace 715854 (D) 750 mL $55 TASTING NOTE: Marl/gypsum soil. Rich, deep, sweet nose with meaty, spicy undertones to the honeyed fruit. The palate is explosively rich: sweet but brilliantly balanced. There’s also a thick herby texture and spicy edge. Brilliant. Excellent. Score - 95. (Jamie Goode, www.wineanorak.com)

France - Loire
White Table Wine
PASCAL JOLIVET POUILLY FUMÉ LA GRANDE CUVÉE 2002 AC 947663 (XD) 750 mL $42.00 TASTING NOTE: Pale gold color. Exotic aromas of honey, peach, apricot, orange blossom and toasted grain; almost a late harvest style. Then lush, rich and chewy in the mouth, with flavors of white peach and honey. This has the weight and texture of chardonnay, and thus comes across as a bit heavy for Pouilly-Fume. But finishes surprisingly long and dry, with a note of hazelnut. For chardonnay lovers who are instinctively afraid of sauvignon. Score - 90. (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2004) FOOD MATCH: chicken curry, pan-Asian food, chocolate desserts.

PASCAL JOLIVET SANCERRE BLANC LA GRANDE CUVÉE 2002 AC 25767 (XD) 750 mL $49 The Sancerre La Grande Cuvée is produced from the juice of the first pressing of the oldest vines, and only in the top vintage years. It is a big, rich complex which, unusually for Sauvignon Blanc, requires a minimum five years of aging before it begins to show its true potential. This wine is a truly unique expression of Sauvignon Blanc. Only 800 cases made. FOOD MATCH: Bouchées à la Reine, other white meats, chocolate.

France - Champagne
Champagne
BOLLINGER R.D. EXTRA BRUT CHAMPAGNE 1995 AC 575209 (XD) 3000 mL $750 TASTING NOTE: A dry, oxidative style, with whole-grain bread, ginger, roasted hazelnut and yeast notes lending complexity. Its structure comes into relief due to the dryness, but overall this is balanced and well-integrated, with a very long finish and an expansive aftertaste. Ideal with seafood and rich sauces or game birds. Drink now through 2020. Score - 95. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Aug. 31, 2005)

BOLLINGER R.D. EXTRA BRUT CHAMPAGNE 1995 AC 933606 (XD) 750 mL $159 TASTING NOTE: A dry, oxidative style, with whole-grain bread, ginger, roasted hazelnut and yeast notes lending complexity. Its structure comes into relief due to the dryness, but overall this is balanced and well-integrated, with a very long finish and an expansive aftertaste. Ideal with seafood and rich sauces or game birds. Drink now through 2020. Score - 95. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Aug. 31, 2005)

BOLLINGER R.D. EXTRA BRUT CHAMPAGNE 1995 AC 575217 (XD) 1500 mL $350 TASTING NOTE: A dry, oxidative style, with whole-grain bread, ginger, roasted hazelnut and yeast notes lending complexity. Its structure comes into relief due to the dryness, but overall this is balanced and well-integrated, with a very long finish and an expansive aftertaste. Ideal with seafood and rich sauces or game birds. Drink now through 2020. Score - 95. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Aug. 31, 2005)

DUVAL-LEROY FEMME DE CHAMPAGNE 1996 AC 670364 (D) 500 mL $74 TASTING NOTE: A strong graphite aroma leads into sumptuous flavors of tobacco, biscuit, citrus and walnut in this athletic Champagne. It's very vinous, a serious bubbly that can stand up to light meat and poultry dishes. Kaleidoscopic finish. Drink now through 2015. Special Designation: Highly Recommended. Score - 95. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Nov. 30, 2004)

DUVAL-LEROY VINTAGE BRUT CHAMPAGNE 1996 AC 133 (D) 750 mL $58 Decanter awarded this lovely champagne ** out of five.** (www.decanter.com) TASTING NOTE: A tangy, citrus- and nut-flavored Champagne, with a distinctive gum-tingling sensation. Starts out rich, turning lean and tightly wound on the finish. Fine coffee-tinged aftertaste. Drink now through 2020. Score - 93. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Nov. 30, 2006)

LANSON NOBLE CUVÉE BRUT CHAMPAGNE 1998 AC 32599 (D) 750 mL $132 TASTING NOTE: Full of finesse and mineral character, this bubbly shows citrus and hazelnut flavors. Graceful and deftly balanced, with a long, lingering aftertaste of grilled hazelnut. Best from 2007 through 2014. Score - 92. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Nov. 30, 2006)

PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART BLANC DE BLANCS CHAMPAGNE 1997 AC 21444 (XD) 750 mL $82 TASTING NOTE: This is really singing today. A beguiling blanc de blancs, bursting with citrus confit, pastry and hazelnut aromas and flavors supported by a firm structure. It turns a little lean on the finish, but the aftertaste is long. Drink now through 2007. Score - 92. (Bruce Sanderson, www.winespectator.com, Nov. 15, 2004)

PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART CUVÉE LIESSE D'HARBONNEVILLE 1995 AC Champagne 21451 (D) 750 mL $144 D'Harbonneville is the prestige cuvée of this small family owned and run Champagne House. No expense is spared in their efforts to produce the best possible expression of the vintage. The base wines are fermented in exclusively 100% barriques and spend 6 months in cask before being bottled. The wine then spends a minimum of 10 years in their cellars before being released.