De Bortoli Reserve Release Chardonnay 2004
Yarra Valley, Victoria
52910
(D) 750 mL $45
TASTING NOTE: A deliberately complex wine, with lots of funky Burgundian barrel ferment, lees and wild yeast characters; the fruit sustains the winemaker inputs very well; rich and profound. Gold medal Sydney Wine Show '06. Score - 95.
(James Halliday,
Australian Wine Companion, 2007)
Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling 2006
Clare Valley, South Australia
52134
(D) 750 mL $25
TASTING NOTE: Greenish straw. Racy, mineral-accented lime and grapefruit aromas, with a fine dusting of white florality. Crisp, sharply focused citrus and green apple flavors are strikingly pure, firm and dry. Rather uncompromisingly stern but deeply concentrated, finishing with bitter lemon and lime zest qualities. Score - 91.
(Josh Raynolds,
International Wine Cellar, Sept./Oct. 2007)
PEWSEY VALE THE CONTOURS RIESLING 2001
Eden Valley, South Australia
686618
(XD) 750 mL $27
TASTING NOTE: While I believe most Australian Rieslings should be drunk in their delicate, refreshing, youthful stage, the 2001 Riesling Contours makes a mockery of such advice. This nearly six-year-old beauty exhibits classic Alsatian characteristics of petroleum, buttery apples, currants, licorice, and rose petals. Exhibiting a real terroir character, medium body, and a long, dry finish, it should keep for 1-2 more years. Score - 91.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2006)
Red table Wine
Balnaves Shiraz 2004
Coonawarra, South Australia
45237
(D) 750 mL $29
TASTING NOTE: Firm in texture, with juicy blackberry and sage flavors that rev up nicely as the finish sails on and on against refreshing acidity. Drink now through 2012. Score - 91.
(Harvey Steiman,
www.winespectator.com, Feb. 28, 2007)
BREMERTON SHIRAZ/CABERNET B.O.V. 2003
Langhorne Creek, South Australia
21576
(XD) 750 mL $53
TASTING NOTE: A 50-50 blend, the dense ruby/purple-hued 2003 Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon B.O.V. offers up sweet floral, blackberry, blueberry, chocolate, and toasty new oak aromas. Dense, full-bodied, ripe, and multi-layered, it was aged in new French oak for 20 months prior to bottling. Consume this impressive offering over the next 10-12 years. One of Australia’s finest female winemakers, Rebecca Wilson has full control at Bremerton, and the wines here tend to be well-made as well as realistically priced. Score - 92.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2005)
D'ARENBERG THE STICKS & STONES TEMPRANILLO/GRENACHE/SouzÃo 2005 McLaren Vale, South Australia
685909
(D) 750 mL $29
Souzão is a very rare Portuguese grape used in the past for Port wines. It is enjoying a small renaissance amongst Douro producers and, clearly, Australian ones. It provides colour and acidity to blended table wines.
TASTING NOTE: A fragrant array of predominantly red fruit aromas and flavours; medium-bodied, with silky mouthfeel and fine tannins; not noble, but a fun commoner, even if pricey. Score - 90.
(James Halliday,
Australian Wine Companion, 2008)
De Bortoli Reserve Release Syrah 2004
Yarra Valley, Victoria
921593
(D) 750 mL $45
TASTING NOTE: A beautifully made win with absolutely perfect balance, structure and style; silky smooth and long black fruits, with splashes of spice. Score - 96.
(James Halliday,
Australian Wine Companion, 2007)
Hazyblur Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia
52118
(D) 750 mL $39
TASTING NOTE: The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, from a young vineyard planted on Kangaroo Island, is spectacular. It offers superb creme de cassis-like fruit intermixed with notions of smoke, graphite, crushed rocks, flowers, and black currants. This full-bodied, powerful, opulent red’s fruit and glycerin conceals significant tannin. Since it is made from young vines, I would opt for drinking it over the next decade. Score - 93.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2006)
KAESLER THE BOGAN SHIRAZ 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia
4234
(D) 750 mL $65
TASTING NOTE: The 2004 Shiraz The Bogan, a blend of 98% Shiraz and 2% Viognier aged 20 months in primarily American oak, is a seamlessly constructed wine that was tasted immediately prior to bottling. Inky/purple-colored, with superb ripeness and fruit as well as loads of cassis, blackberry, cedar, and spice box, it will be gorgeous young, yet should age effortlessly for 10-15 years. Score - (92-95).
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2005)
Kay Brothers Hillside Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia
2816
(XD) 750 mL $69
TASTING NOTE: From 6- to 34-year-old vines, the 2004 Shiraz Hillside spent 28 months in American oak, 50% new and 50% used. A blockbuster effort, it reveals deep, chocolaty, meaty notes intermixed with blackberries, cherries, and cassis. Inky/ruby/purple-colored, with a large mouthfeel, full body, and well-integrated acidity, tannin, and alcohol, this is a superb McLaren Vale Shiraz to enjoy over the next 12-15 years. Score - 93.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2006)
PENLEY ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2004
Coonawarra, South Australia
701821
(XD) 750 mL $55
TASTING NOTE: The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve was aged in 100% new oak, 80% French and 20% American. It has a splendid aromatic array of toast, spice box, pencil lead, licorice, black currant, and blackberry liqueur. This is followed by a full-bodied, opulent, layered Cabernet with well-integrated tannins, and a long, pure finish. It will continue to evolve with 3-4 years in the cellar and drink well through 2024. Score - 92.
(Jay Miller,
www.erobertparker.com, Dec. 2007)
Rockford Basket Press Shiraz 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia
736488
(D) 750 mL $69
TASTING NOTE: A crisp, elegant, refreshing style of Shiraz made from 60- to 140-year-old vines, the 2002 vintage, according to winemaker Chris Ringland, produced wines of elegance and crisp acidity because of the long growing season. This fresh, lively yet seriously concentrated effort needs another 2-3 years of bottle age, and should drink well for two decades. Score - 92.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2005)
Rolf Binder Hanisch Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia
39024
(XD) 750 mL $129
TASTING NOTE: Binder’s flagship offering, produced from a vineyard planted in on sandy, gravelly, loamy soils, is his Shiraz Hanisch. The 2004 was aged in a combination of French and American oak, more than half of which was new. It boasts a beautiful blue/purple color, great stuffing, and a fabulous perfume of crushed rocks, smoked meats, blackberries, cassis, and flowers. This thick, opulent, powerful Shiraz needs 4-5 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 20-25. Score - 95.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2006)
SANDALFORD PRENDIVILLE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002
Margaret River, Western Australia
22285
(XD) 750 mL $87
TASTING NOTE: Classic cedar, spice, earth and cassis aromas; a long palate; fine but persistent tannins will help hold the wine for a long future. Drink to 2020. Score - 95.
(James Halliday,
winecompanion.com.au, Oct. 2005)
Turkey Flat Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia
2790
(XD) 750 mL $49
TASTING NOTE: Co-fermented with 1% Marsanne, the fabulous 2004 Shiraz boasts a dense purple color as well as a big, sweet nose of blackberries, toasty French oak, licorice, and new saddle leather. Full-bodied, rich, and heady, with loads of glycerin, silky tannin, and a blockbuster finish, it should be drunk over the next decade. Score - 94.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2006)
Two Hands Aerope Grenache 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia
52241
(D) 750 mL $89
TASTING NOTE: Medium red. An exotic bouquet includes raspberry, candied cherry, sandalwood, vanilla and pungent herbs. Lush, creamy and sweet, with deeply concentrated red fruit and smoky herb flavors and deftly knit, silky tannins. Finishes on notes of pure red berries and red licorice, with outstanding persistence. Twelftree says that this wine represents his eight best barrels of grenache, from vines ranging from 50 to 80 years of age, and is their stab at "a luxury Chateauneuf." Score - 94.
(Josh Raynolds,
International Wine Cellar, July/Aug. 2007)
South Africa
White
Table Wine
Ken Forrester The FMC Chenin Blanc 2004
WO Stellenbosch
37291
(XD) 750 mL $55
TASTING NOTE: Big, with alluring graham and ginger aromas followed by a layered palate of cardamom, fig, piecrust, nectarine and persimmon. Rich but dry and focused, with a long, detailed finish. Lovely. Drink now through 2010. Score - 91.
(James Molesworth,
www.winespectator.com, Sept. 30, 2006)
Red table Wine
Bellingham The Maverick S.M.V. 2003
WO Franschhoek
39412
(D) 750 mL $35
TASTING NOTE: 03 serious, opaque, spicy 70/20/10 blend syrah, mourvèdre, viognier, all seamlessly integrated with oak & acidity; ripe mulberry fruit supported by tannins which provide structure to keep few yrs; strapping 15% alc not out of place; Decanter gold. Score - ****(out of 5).
(Ingrid Motteux, John Platter South African Wines, 2007)
DELHEIM GRAND RESERVE 2001
WO Stellenbosch
951731
(XD) 1500 mL $65
TASTING NOTE: Enduring success for this trail blazing flagship; sometimes blended, latterly 100% Cab; latest 01 with 2% Merlot. Classy Cassis, tea-leaf and cinnamon bouquet; darkly handsome fruit cosseted in fine oak, with house's signature approachable tannins, classic dry finish. Score -**** (out of 5).
(Irina von Holdt, John Platter South African Wines, 2005)
Graham Beck Old Road Pinotage Single Vineyard 2002
WO Franschhoek
52746
(D) 750 mL $25
TASTING NOTE: From 1963-planted, low-yielding [Franschhoek] vines. 02 sinuous structure, complex interweaving of sweet & savoury spices, concentrated red berry fruit, easily assimilated yr Fr/Am barriques. Pinotage Top Ten. Score - **** (ut of 5).
(Tim James, John Platter South African Wines, 2007)
LABORIE JEAN TAILLEFERT SHIRAZ 2002
WO Paarl
2295
(D) 750 mL $45
TASTING NOTE: A bold New World shiraz flagship. As befits the vintage, 02 more accessible than normal, but no less impressive: deep, rich vanilla-spiced fruitcake nose, voluptuous black plum flavours, smoothly polished. 13 months new American oak. Should develop 4+ years. Unfiltered, as are other reds. Score - **** (out of 5).
(Christine Rudman, John Platter South African Wines, 2006)
Saxenburg Private Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
WO Stellenbosch
39578
(XD) 750 mL $25
TASTING NOTE: A very herbal wine, with sage and thyme flavors. There are solid, dry tannins that mask the black fruits and red berry tastes. This is a wine that obviously needs time to develop, promising a serious, tannin-layered style. Score - 89.
(Roger Voss,
Wine Enthusiast, Nov. 2006)
VILAFONTÉ SERIES C 2004
WO Paarl
8896
(XD) 750 mL $59
TASTING NOTE: Reserved at first, yet the dark fig, licorice, briar and cocoa powder flavors work their way out with air. Muscular but polished, with a rich, dark finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Drink now through 2009. Score - 90.
(James Molesworth,
www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2007)
VILAFONTÉ SERIES M 2004
WO Paarl
7757
(XD) 750 mL $45
TASTING NOTE: Ripe and juicy, yet restrained and pure, with a fine minerality leading the way for spice cake, fig, raspberry and briar notes. The long, supple finish is carried by the fine structure. Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2008. Score - 91.
(James Molesworth,
www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2007)
TASTING NOTE: A highly perfumed wine, with delicious green, grassy flavors. It has crispness, a layer of tannin and great fresh fruits. Apples and grapefruit exist comfortably together with a firm structure, which suggests good aging. Score - 90.
(Roger Voss,
Wine Enthusiast, Aug. 2005)
Chile
Red table Wine
Antinori-Matte Albis 2003
Maipo Valley
579813
(D) 750 mL $49
TASTING NOTE: (73% cabernet sauvignon, 27% carmenère): Ripe aromas of black cherry, clove and tobacco. Appealing flavors of black plum, herbal tea and currant on the palate. Very good fruit persistence, ample oak, youthful tannins and good acidity. Notes of pepper and menthol in the finish. Score - 91.
(Tom Hyland,
The Wine News, Aug./Sept. 2007)
Haras de Pirque Elegance Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Maipo Valley
640672
(D) 750 mL $34
TASTING NOTE: A broad-shouldered wine, with lots of coffee and bacony toast up front, followed by dark plum, prune, cocoa and loam notes. Has a bit of a chewy feel, but there's plenty of flesh. Brief cellaring should tame this. Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2010. Score - 90.
(James Molesworth,
www.winespectator.com, Aug. 31, 2007)
Miguel Torres Conde de Superunda 2003
Maule Valley
695106
(XD) 750 mL $45
TASTING NOTE: The 2003 Conde de Superunda is composed of 60% Tempranillo, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Monastrell, and 3% Carmenere. There is very little Tempranillo and Monastrell planted in Chile but this wine makes a strong argument for further experimentation. It is opaque purple-colored with a brooding nose of pain grille, scorched earth, black cherry, and black raspberry. The wine is tight and backward on the palate needing 8-10 years to strut its best stuff. There are full, ripe tannins which are nicely integrated with the oak and the finish is long and pure. Only patient collectors need apply. Score - 92.
(Jay Miller,
www.erobertparker.com, June 2007)
Pangea APALTA Syrah 2004
Colchagua Valley
49833
(D) 750 mL $59
TASTING NOTE: Chile's elite Syrahs are big wines, and Pangea is no exception. It is full-bodied, dark in hue, and ripe. Although it is a powerful wine, it does not, however, trade only in power. Its oak frame gives it sleekness and its fine-grained tannin gives it soft, rich, velvety texture. Best of all, its flavors are complex. Many elite Syrahs from the New World are luxuriously fruity wines, but they have no flavor complexity apart from fruitiness. The 2004 Pangea instead has flavors that run along the Rhône-Syrah spectrum, including smoked bacon, peppery spice, chocolate, and a fleeting vegetal note along with black fruit and a lingering minerality on the finish. The fruit component is dominant on both the nose and
palate -- the dark plum becomes almost Port-like with lots of air -- but the wine does not smell and taste only of fruit … Score - 92.
(Mary Ewing-Mulligan M.W.,
www.winereviewonline.com, Oct. 2007)
VIÑA CASA SILVA ALTURA 2001
Colchagua Valley
685552
(D) 750 mL $75
TASTING NOTE: (Carmenère, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot) Casa Silva's top wine. Expensive ... but worth it. Dense purple black colour that stains the glass; a nose of cedar, blackcurrants and vanilla; full-bodied and plush with sweet, perfumed plum and blackcurrant flavours; beautifully balanced and supple with great length. A pleasure to drink. (Tony Aspler, www.tonyaspler.com, July 4, 2006)
France – Bordeaux
White
Table Wine
CHÂTEAU D'YQUEM 2002
AC Sauternes, 1er Cru Supérieur
503821
(S) 375 mL $215
503839 (S) 750 mL $440
503847 (S) 1500 mL $829
TASTING NOTE: Beautiful apple, vanilla and honey aromas, with just the right amount of new wood. Full-bodied, medium sweet, with lots of pretty pineapple and honey. Long and refined. A beautifully silky and balanced Sauternes. Lots of intensity and well-knit. Unrivaled in this vintage. Best after 2009. Score - 96.
(James Suckling,
www.winespectator.com, July 31, 2006)
CHÂTEAU D'YQUEM 2003
AC Sauternes, 1er Cru Supérieur
503813
(S) 375 mL $250
TASTING NOTE: Subtle and racy, with lemon rind, vanilla cream and dried pineapple. Very spicy and intense. Full-bodied, with great length and flavor. Electrified yet refined, with medium sweetness and a wonderful finish. I love the class of this, and the length. Has afterburners. Best after 2010. Score - 98.
(James Suckling,
www.winespectator.com, Dec. 31, 2006)
CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD 2003
AC Sauternes, 1er Cru
598466
(S) 375 mL $43
TASTING NOTE: This is very sweet and rich on the nose, with toffee, honey and spices. Full-bodied, with thick honey, spice, dried apricot and syrup flavors. Lasts for minutes on the palate. Big botrytis bomb. Love it. Best after 2010. Score - 95.
(James Suckling,
www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2006)
ChÂteau LA TOUR BLANCHE 2003
AC Sauternes, 1er Cru
592485
(XD) 375 mL $40
TASTING NOTE: Dark gold in color already, with intense aromas of dried apricots, citrus, honey and maple syrup with lots of spice. Full-bodied, with lovely sweetness and a long, creamy peach tart, tobacco, honey aftertaste. This is pure botrytis. Best ever from here. Has an incredible finish. Best after 2010. Score - 97.
(James Suckling,
www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2006)
CHÂTEAU LAMOTHE GUIGNARD 2003
AC Sauternes, 2e Cru Classé
598490
(S) 375 mL $24
TASTING NOTE: Intense aromas of dried lemons, honey and apricots follow through to a full-bodied, dense palate of very sweet fruit that shows masses of dried fruit character. Lasts a very long time on the palate. Even better than from barrel. Yummy. Best after 2009. Score - 92.
(James Suckling,
www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2006)
CHÂTEAU NAIRAC 2003
AC Barsac, 2e Cru
599753 (S) 375 mL $45 599738
(S) 750 mL $99
TASTING NOTE: Pale, bright gold. Knockout nose offers orange marmalade, honey, creme caramel and a whiff of resiny oak. Unctuous and supersweet, with a wonderfully lush, chewy, seamless texture leavened by racy orange flavor and complemented by vanillin oak. This remarkably complex and unforced wine opened spectacularly with aeration, showing captivating red berry, rose petal and saline nuances to go with its deeper honey and toffee flavors. Conveys an impression of deep sweetness without any excess weight. Finishes bright and extremely long. Score - 94.
(Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, July/Aug. 2006)
CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT 2003
AC Sauternes, 1er Cru
587006
(S) 375 mL $45
TASTING NOTE: Intense aromas of pecan pie, dried apricot, apples and syrup. Full-bodied, medium-sweet, with a dense mouthfeel of very ripe fruit and a long, powerful and spicy aftertaste. Very, very impressive. Not quite the 2001, but who's arguing? Best after 2010. Score - 93.
(James Suckling,
www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2006)
Pavillon Blanc du CHÂTEAU Margaux 2004 AC Margaux
509877 (XD) 750 mL $129
TASTING NOTE: Although this spectacular 2004 tips the scales at an astonishing 14.5% alcohol, it is an elegant white Bordeaux offering notes of honeyed
grapefruit, melons, orange rinds, and lemon oil. Medium-bodied, rich, beautifully textured, and pure, it should evolve for 15-20 years. Score - 93. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com,Jun-06)
Red table Wine
CHÂTEAU BERNADOTTE 2003
AC Haut-Médoc
599654
(XD) 750 mL $39
TASTING NOTE: A sleeper of the vintage, the 2003 possesses a dense plum/purple color, a rich, sumptuous perfume of roasted nuts, cedar, figs, plums, and black currants, medium to full body, silky tannin, low acidity, and a lush, hedonistic, sensual personality. It should drink well for a decade. Score - 90.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, April 2006)
ChÂteau Canon La Gaffeliere 2004
AC St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé
670745
(XD) 750 mL $95
TASTING NOTE: A brilliant achievement for proprietor Stefan von Neipperg, this blend of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits an exuberant, cedary bouquet revealing scents of espresso roast, chocolate, pain grille, and sweet red and black fruits. Opulent and fleshy for a 2004, this sexy beauty offers plenty of purity, symmetry, and sweet tannin. It will provide enjoyment over the next 10-15 years. Score - 91.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, June 2007)
ChÂteau Clos Dubreuil 2004
AC St-Émilion
663591
(XD) 750 mL $95
TASTING NOTE: From a tiny garagiste estate of impeccably high quality, this wine is a resounding success for the vintage. Dark plum/ruby/purple with a nose of espresso roast, cassis, cherry jam, and chocolate, this full-bodied wine is lavishly rich (atypically so for a 2004), low in acidity, and very intense in fruit. The opulent texture only adds to the wine’s compelling allure. Drink it over the next 12-13 years. Score - 91.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, June 2007)
CHÂTEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL 2000
AC St-Estéphe, 2e Cru
597815
(XD) 750 mL $199
TASTING NOTE: This wine puts on weight and grows in stature every time I go back to it. In fact, from the bottle it was better than ever. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, the 2000 Cos d'Estournel suffers only in comparison with its successor, the 2001. Deep bluish purple in color with a reticent but emerging bouquet of cedar, licorice, blueberry, cassis, vanilla, and lead pencil shavings, this medium-bodied, slightly sinewy Cos d'Estournel has relatively high tannin, an excellent mid-palate, and a persistent finish. Purity and classicism are hallmarks of this top-flight wine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Score - 92.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, April 2003)
ChÂteau La Conseillante 2004
AC Pomerol
664235
(XD) 750 mL $119
TASTING NOTE: Perfumed and subtle, with blackberry, chocolate and light vanilla. Full-bodied, yet not a blockbuster, with wonderful, caressing mouthfeel and a medium-to-long finish. Balanced and refined. Best after 2010. Score - 92.
(James Suckling,
www.winespectator.com, March 31, 2007)
ChÂteau Latour 1990
AC Pauillac, 1er Cru
665620
(XD) 750 mL $1899
TASTING NOTE: This is a beauty, but not the awesome blockbuster I remembered. There is a roasted, earthy, hot year character with extremely low acidity, fleshy, seductive, opulently-textured flavors, and a full-bodied finish with considerable amounts of glycerin and tannin. The wine was sweet, accessible, and seductive on the attack, but it closed down in the mouth. Interestingly, when I previously tasted this wine (about six months ago) from a bottle in my cellar, I found it to be impenetrable, needing at least 6-10 years of further cellaring. Based on this example from the Chateau's cellar, it could be drunk now. In any event, it will last 25-30 years, but is it the immortal classic many observers, including myself, thought it was? Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030. Score - 96.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, June 2000)
ChÂteau Latour 1995
AC Pauillac, 1er Cru
665646
(XD) 750 mL $899
TASTING NOTE: A beauty, the opaque dense purple-colored 1995 exhibits jammy cassis, vanillin, and minerals in its fragrant but still youthful aromatics. Medium to full-bodied, with exceptional purity, superb concentration, and a long, intense, ripe, 40-second finish, this is a magnificent example of Latour. As the wine sat in the glass, scents of roasted espresso and toasty new oak emerged. This classic will require considerable cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2050. Score - 96.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, June 2000)
ChÂteau Latour 1996
AC Pauillac, 1er Cru
665653
(XD) 750 mL $999
TASTING NOTE: A spectacular Latour, the 1996 may be the modern day clone of the 1966, only riper. This vintage, which is so variable in Pomerol, St.-Emilion, and Graves, was fabulous for the late-harvested Cabernet Sauvignon of the northern Medoc because of splendid weather in late September and early October. An opaque purple color is followed by phenomenally sweet, pure aromas of cassis infused with subtle minerals. This massive offering possesses unreal levels of extract, full body, intensely ripe, but abundant tannin, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. Classic and dense, it displays the potential for 50-75 years of longevity. Although still an infant, it would be educational to taste a bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2050. Score - 99.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, June 2000)
ChÂteau Latour 1997
AC Pauillac, 1er Cru
665661
(XD) 750 mL $349
TASTING NOTE: Medium red. Roasted currant, lead pencil, grilled nuts, tobacco and minerals on the nose. Smooth, vinous and concentrated, with lovely depth of flavor and ripe acidity for the vintage. Finishes with even tannins and excellent length. A very successful '97. Score - 91.
(Stephen Tanzer,
International Wine Cellar, May/June 2000)
ChÂteau Latour 1999
AC Pauillac, 1er Cru
665711
(XD) 750 mL $499
TASTING NOTE: Readers looking for a modern day version of Latour's magnificent 1962 or 1971 should check out the sensational 1999 Latour. It is a big, concentrated offering, exhibiting a dense ruby/purple color, and a classic nose of minerals, black currants, leather, and vanilla. The wine is long, ripe, and medium-bodied, with high levels of sweet tannin. This surprisingly full, concentrated 1999 should be drinkable in 5-6 years; it will last for three decades. Score - 94.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, April 2002)
ChÂteau Latour 2000
AC Pauillac, 1er Cru
665703
(XD) 750 mL $2169
TASTING NOTE: There are only 14,000 cases (only 48% of the crop made it into the grand vin) of the 2000, which flirts with perfection. Truly great stuff, it reveals perfect equilibrium, great finesse, yet colossal size, with a thickness and density that rival the brilliant 1996. This saturated black ruby/purple colored wine seems almost discreet on first inspection, but with aeration, notes of vanilla, exceptionally pure, mineral-infused creme de cassis, and earth emerge. Full-bodied and tannic, it should come close to representing perfection. Latour's 2000 is hard to compare with previous vintages. It obviously does not have the opulence of the 1990 and 1982, yet there is an extraordinary purity, delineation, seamlessness, and freshness to this wine that sets it apart from previous vintages. In any event, it is prodigious, with at least five decades of evolution ahead of it. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2050. Score - 98.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, April 2003)
ChÂteau Latour 2001
AC Pauillac, 1er Cru
665695
(XD) 750 mL $755
TASTING NOTE: A brilliant offering, which should be drinkable much earlier than the blockbuster 2000, the 2001 Latour boasts an inky/ruby/purple color to the rim as well as a glorious bouquet of black currants, crushed stones, vanilla, and hints of truffles and oak. A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance primarily Merlot with a touch of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it reveals a sweetness on the palate that is atypical for such a young Latour. The beautiful integration of tannin, acidity, and wood is stunning. The wine flows across the palate with fabulous texture, purity, and presence. This luscious, full-bodied Latour was surprisingly open-knit on the three occasions I tasted it from bottle. However, do not mistake its aging ability as this 2001, despite its precociousness, will last 20-25 years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025. Score - 95.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, June 2004)
ChÂteau Latour 2002
AC Pauillac, 1er Cru
665687
(XD) 750 mL $825
TASTING NOTE: The wine of the vintage? There are only 10,000 cases of this extraordinarily rich, dense 2002 that is as powerful as the 2003 (even the alcohol levels are nearly the same, 12.85%) . It is dark ruby/purple to the rim, with notes of English walnuts, crushed rocks, black currants, and forest floor, dense, full-bodied, and opulent, yet classic with spectacular aromatics, marvelous purity, and a full-bodied finish that lasts just over 50+ seconds. Huge richness and the sweetness of the tannin are somewhat deceptive as this wine seems set for a long life. Administrator Frederic Engerer seems to be more pleased with what Latour achieved in 2002 than in any other recent vintage. Hats off to him for an extraordinary accomplishment in a vintage that wouldn’t have been expected to produce the raw materials to achieve something at this level of quality. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2045. Score - 96.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, April 2005)
ChÂteau Latour 2003
AC Pauillac, 1er Cru
665679
(XD) 750 mL $1859
TASTING NOTE: There are only 10,800 cases (rather than the normal 15,000-20,000) of the 2003 Latour, a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot (13.3% finished alcohol). A prodigious effort, it boasts a saturated purple color as well as a gorgeous perfume of smoke, cedar, creme de cassis, flowers, crushed rocks, and blackberries. Massive and multi-layered, with huge richness and low acidity, it is about as unctuous as a young Latour can be. It could be compared to the 1982, but it may be even more pure, at least at this early stage, than that monumental wine. The level of intensity builds prodigiously in the mouth, and the finish lasts nearly a minute. Disarmingly accessible (although analytically the tannin level is high), I suspect it will ultimately shut down, but it was performing impeccably when I tasted it. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040+. Score - 100.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, April 2006)
ChÂteau Latour 2004
AC Pauillac, 1er Cru
665604
(XD) 750 mL $899
TASTING NOTE: A terrific effort from Administrator Frederic Engerer and owner Francois Pinault, the dark ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Latour exhibits a strong cassis character intermixed with notes of crushed rocks, earth, cedar, and forest floor. Racy, elegant, but powerful with medium to full body, and sweet tannin, it will benefit from 5-7 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades. It is a very impressive offering. Score - 95.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, June 2007)
ChÂteau MALESCOT ST. EXUPÉRY 2003
AC Margaux, 3e Cru Classé
593228
(XD) 750 mL $75
TASTING NOTE: The noteworthy, classic Margauxs from this estate remain under most consumers’ radar. Displaying low acidity and a forward style, the exotic 2003 is undeniably fragrant, complex, and sexy. Its dark ruby/purple color is followed by sumptuous aromas of truffles, underbrush, plums, cassis, and a hint of figs. The tannin is sweet, and the texture is multilayered. This full-bodied, chewy, round, sensual Margaux should evolve gracefully for 15+ years. Bravo! Score - 92.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, April 2006)
CHÂTEAU MARGAUX 1981
AC, Margaux, 1er Cru
509828
(XD) 1500 mL $1095
TASTING NOTE: The other wine of the vintage. Seriously powerful with fabulous color and mint, cassis and berry aromas and flavors. Has a full body and is tannic; still needs time to come around. Better after 1997. -- The Bordeaux 50. Score - 95.
(James Suckling,
www.winespectator.com, Oct. 15, 1994)
ChÂteau PONTET-CANET 2003
AC Pauillac, 5e Cru Classé 588517
(XD) 750 mL $109
TASTING NOTE: One cannot say enough about the labors of proprietor Alfred Tesseron, who has personally overseen the dramatic increase in quality of the wines at Pontet-Canet which started in a significant manner with 1994. This is a classic Pauillac-styled wine (meaning oodles of cassis flavors), as one might expect from a vineyard on the plateau of Pauillac, across the street from Mouton-Rothschild. One of the great successes of the vintage and certainly one of the most profound Pontet-Canets made over the last decade is the 2003. Deep purple to the rim with a glorious nose of scorched earth, black currant jam, smoke, licorice, and roasted meats, it is full-bodied, incredibly powerful, dense, with low acidity but high tannin, broad-shouldered, and savory. This is a stunning, pure, classic Pontet-Canet that should be at its best between 2010 and 2035.
Score - 95.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, April 2006)
ChÂteau Soutard 2000
AC St.-Emilion Grand Cru
46953
(XD) 750 mL $79
Château Soutard is one of the most individual wines as well as one of the most ecologically run properties in the Bordeaux area. The wine is made for the long term. For some reason the malos do not take place here until the late spring or early summer following the vintage - elsewhere in Bordeaux this fermentation usually follows the sugar-alcohol fermentation back in the late autumn … The wine is full-bodied, somewhat austere, even hard in its youth. It seems to lack generosity. This arrives later, when the richness and concentration are also more apparent. It needs time, but it is usually worth waiting for. (Clive Coates MW, The Wines of Bordeaux, 2004)
Les Forts de Latour 2004
AC Pauillac
665745
(XD) 750 mL $199
TASTING NOTE: The estate’s second wine continues to go from strength to strength. The 2004 Forts de Latour (includes 75% Cabernet Sauvignon) reveals a deep ruby/purple hue, classic evolved cedary, lead pencil, and cassis characteristics, medium body, beautiful sweetness of fruit, and a more forward, evolved character than its big sibling. Enjoy it over the next 15+ years. Score - 90.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, June 2007)
France – Burgundy
White
Table Wine
Domaine Henri Gouges Bourgogne Pinot Blanc 2004
AC
693788
(D) 750 mL $25
Pinot Blanc "almost certainly originated in Burgundy," according to wine writer Steve Pitcher, "where it once flourished alongside chardonnay in the Cote d'Or. When the appellation controllée system was instituted in 1937, defining which grape varieties would be permitted in Burgundy, pinot blanc lost out to chardonnay. … " It is allowed AC status in wines labelled Bourgogne or in some Macon wines. Henri Gouges is one of the few producers to still cultivate Pinot Blanc in Burgundy. Production here is extremely limited, making Gouges' wines heavily in demand. This fresh, lush Pinot Blanc is a rarity in Burgundy - and well worth a try.
France – Rhône
Red
Table Wine
DOMAINE FONT DE MICHELLE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE CUVÉE ETIENNE GONNET 2004
AC
706556
(XD) 750 mL $69
TASTING NOTE: Rich and smoky, with coffee, truffle and tar notes up front, but also plenty of plum, black currant and fig fruit. Long, rich finish lets the fruit and truffle notes play out nicely. Best from 2007 through 2022. Score - 93.
(James Molesworth,
www.winespectator.com, Nov. 15, 2006)
France – Loire
White
Table Wine
ChÂteau Soucherie Coteaux Du Layon CuvÉe S 2002
AC
952069
(MS) 750 mL $34
TASTING NOTE: Straw coloured with golden tones, this wine presents a range of tempting aromas of white fruits and white flowers. On the palate, the fruit, rich and persistent, becomes crystallized, almost caramelized, emphasizing a suave mellowness that remains balanced. An already pleasant bottle that could be cellared. (Guide Hachette, 2006)
France – Champagne
Louis Roederer Brut Premier
AC
747386
(XD) 3000 mL $310
The 750 mL size of this Champagne (268771) is an part of our Essentials Collection.
TASTING NOTE: Ripe, rich and round up front; then this moves into some interesting, concentrated flavors of spicy, lightly candied fruits. There is also a definite mineral lift to it. The acids are strong but not abrasive, and the wine carries a stony freshness through the finish. It does not evolve, but it persists and cleanses the palate while inviting another sip. Score - 89.
(Paul Gregutt,
Wine Enthusiast, Dec. 2006)
VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN BRUT RESERVE VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE 1989
AC
38778
(XD) 750 mL $110
Kick off your celebration with this robust, outstanding Champagne. Lively and rich with notes of white blossoms, lemon and apricot aromas, it is beautifully balanced with a creamy mouthfeel, complex fruit, nut and mineral flavours that all finish with an elaborate flourish. A winner with shellfish.
VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN RARE CHAMPAGNE 1988
AC
38760
(XD) 750 mL $115
All the Veuve Clicquot champagnes in this release have come to VINTAGES directly from Mme. Clicquot's own cellars, where they have been stored under optimum conditions, ensuring the highest quality. Madame would be pleased.
TASTING NOTE: If 1988 in Champagne is all about refinement, this is the evidence. Elegant, understated even, but well put together, with a silky texture and firm structure underlying the coffee, toast, hazelnut and fresh citrus notes. Wonderful harmony and expression. Drink now through 2012. Score - 95.
(Bruce Sanderson,
www.winespectator.com, Nov. 30, 2006)
VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN RosÉ RÉserve 1985
AC
38794
(XD) 750 mL $110
This Veuve Clicquot Rosé Réserve 1985 was disgorged in November 2005. No reviews exist for this specific disgorgement, but as it only took place two years ago, the champagne should still be beautifully balanced and remarkably fresh. It should have the acid core the French love and the mature fruit the English prefer.
TASTING NOTE: Well-defined and elegant, displaying balance and harmony. Creamy, with apricot, spice and slate notes. The acidity dovetails nicely on the finish. Drink now through 2020. Score - 92.
(Bruce Sanderson,
www.winespectator.com, April 30, 2005)
TASTING NOTE: Verges on oloroso, offering toffee, cocoa, coffee and roasted walnut aromas and flavors. Pungent and long, with an iodine and walnut aftertaste. Drink now. Score - 91.
(Bruce Sanderson,
www.winespectator.com, Nov. 15, 2006)
Port
Croft Vintage Port 1994
DOC Douro
446690
(S) 750 mL $177
TASTING NOTE: The essence of grapes. Full-bodied and tannic, yet very classy and refined. It's got grip, but rather than smashing you over the head with structure, it seduces gently with its wonderful, well-toned muscles. Best Croft since '45. Best after 2010. Score - 96.
(James Suckling,
www.winespectator.com, April 30, 1997)
Delaforce Vintage Port 1994
DOC Douro
157669
(S) 750 mL $125
TASTING NOTE: 1994 was a stellar vintage, one of the best ever, and deserves star billing. With firm chocolate on the nose, leathery notes and intense ripe black berry fruits. Delicious, although [Taylor Fladgate's] Huyshe Bower suggests waiting another 15 years before it reaches its peak. (Tim Pawsey,
www.vancourier.com, Nov. 2003)
Delaforce Vintage Port 2000
DOC Douro
973909
(S) 750 mL $99
TASTING NOTE: Made in a sweet, open-knit, precocious style, Delaforce's 2000 reveals a dense ruby/purple color as well as sweet, accessible black cherry/blackberry fruit with hints of smoke, earth, and truffles. This lush, medium to full-bodied, juicy, succulent effort will last for 15+ years. Score - 90.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com,
Oct. 2002)
Dow's Vintage Port 2003
DOC Douro
673657
(S) 750 mL $82
TASTING NOTE: Refined. Elegant. This has great style. Chocolate and smoke. Damsons. This has great purity. Beautiful weight and texture. Stunning finesse here. Wonderful balance. Superb, ripe tannins coated in a seamless layer of fruit. Great potential. Possibly wine of the vintage. Score - 19+ (out of 20).
(Chris Kissack,
www.thewinedoctor.com, May 2005)
Ramos Pinto Vintage Port 2003
DOC Douro
741207
(S) 750 mL $84
TASTING NOTE: This has a beautiful colour typical of the young wines of this vintage. The Ramos Pinto style shows through on the nose, with a slightly earthy, concentrated, rather feral fruit on the nose. This has great character! Lovely presence on the palate, although not quite the impact or concentration that one might expect from a 2003 Vintage Port. Nevertheless it is very good, and the massive core of tannins which dominate the finish should see this do very nicely in the cellar for 20 years or more. Score - 17.5+ (out of 20).
(Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com, Nov. 2005)
SMITH WOODHOUSE VINTAGE PORT 1977
DOC Douro
24893
(S) 1500 mL $395
TASTING NOTE: Very good colour. Full, firm, rich and very vigorous on the nose. This is a splendid example. Still very youthful. Full body. Still vestiges of the tannic structure. Lovely fruit and very good grip. A virile wine. High class. Fine long finish. Fine plus. Score - 18 (out of 20).
(Clive Coates,
The Vine, July 2002)
Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 1963
DOC Douro
985317
(MS) 750 mL $844
TASTING NOTE: Full bodied, powerful and concentrated but with excellent balance and structure, this dark royal purple wine now shows exquisite black cherry, plum and espresso coffee flavors and aromas on the mid-palate, those yielding nicely on the long finish to dark chocolate and an appealing hint of earthiness. Well balanced and with tannins that have finally softened the wine is drinking nicely now and should continue to cellar well until 2008 – 2010. Score - 95.
(Daniel Rogov,
www.stratsplace.com, Aug. 30, 1998)
Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 1994
DOC Douro
441196
(S) 750 mL $495
TASTING NOTE: When tasting young vintage ports, Taylor is always the most backward. Yet potentially, it has the capability to be the most majestic. This classically made, opaque purple-colored wine is crammed with black fruits (blueberries and cassis). It reveals high tannin and a reserved style, but it is enormously constituted with massive body, a formidable mid-palate, and exceptional length. It is a young, rich, powerful Taylor that will require 10-15 years of aging. Compared to the more flashy, forward style of the 1992, the 1994 has more in common with such VINTAGES as 1977 and 1970. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2045. Score - 97.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 1996)
Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 1997
DOC Douro
702357
(S) 750 mL $330
TASTING NOTE: Saturated black/purple-colored, with stunning aromatics of blueberries, blackberries, licorice, and iron, this spectacular vintage port is one of the stars of the vintage. Extremely full-bodied, with silky tannin, spectacular concentration and purity, multiple flavor levels, and an evolved, forward personality, this is an exquisite yet precocious 1997 vintage port. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2030. Score - 96.
(Robert Parker Jr.,
www.erobertparker.com, Jan. 2000)
Warre's Vintage Port 2003
DOC Douro
673665
(S) 750 mL $82
TASTING NOTE: An exotic nose. Spiced fruit. Perfumed. Open, expressive. This is very impressive. Beautiful purity on the palate. Very stylish, with lovely ripe structure and exotic, spicy fruit. It's very well integrated. The tannins have a paradoxical brutal and yet velvety presence. This is excellent. Score - 18.5+ (out of 20).
(Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com, May 2005)
Sake
Yoshi No Gawa Dai-Ginjo Ultra Premium SakÉ
Japan
39289
(D) 720 mL $104
TASTING NOTE: Very limited production of pure melon, round, opulent aromatics with a haunting memory of 60% polished rice in a 3 year cool-fermentation that redefines the concept ‘crisp’ to the palate … concise, penetrating elegance. (Brian Storen, Sommelier, 2006)